The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline tie rod ends and drag link

Now that I have a bike (1100 Virago) I can spend some quality summer evenings sweating under the front end of my '51 half ton.

I replaced the king pins and bushings several years ago and they are still tight. I also installed a front disc brake kit and it has served me well. I now embark on getting the steering tightened up.

I removed the tie rod and drag link and noted that all the ball studs were worn horribly out of round. I remember reading some time back about converting the ball and socket style rod ends to more modern tie rod ends. Who offers the best kit or components to do this? I did do a search and did not find any definitive answers.

So...... if you had to do it all over again, who's parts would you use?

There is a method in the tech tips I have been following and have so far taken it apart and acquired the 3 parts:

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/draglink_adjustable.html

I could not get the plug out of the drag link on my truck but since it was snug with no play and moved reasonably well I just lubed it and let it go until now and here’s what I found. Now I know the cups can rotate off the relieved portion and gnaw at the ball shank and eventually break it off. Removed view.

The new tie rod ends have a different taper angle on them so I either need 2 tapered tools or a different one that matches. Here’s what I know about the components so far:


Napa 269-1118 – sleeve Moog # ES 426 S application: 72-78 Ford LTD

Napa 269-2078 outer tie rod end Moog # ES 403 R application: 71-76 Chevrolet Caprice

Napa 269-2225 – inner tie rod end Moog #ES 288 L application: 61-68 Dodge D100


More to follow.

As far as the tie-rod ends go, all the venders sell the same style to replace the ball and socket type.
http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/shop/s...;dept=Truck&searchtype=FT&Go=Go#

Check for prices at any of links above. For the drag link, I had my uncle make me a threaded shaft with left and right threads, just like the tie-rod bar only shorter. I then used two more of the above ends for the drag link. If you have a extra tie-rod bar, cut the right hand threaded side off and shorten the whole bar keeping the left hand threads in place. You then need to cut new right hand threads in the correct locations. Its much easier to get right hand threads cut then left handed!

Be sure and drill out the old ball socket end before trying to press them out.

Joe

If you are interested in original-style tie-rod ends, Rare Parts sells them:

1/2 ton &3/4 ton are the same: 25128 & 25129

Tie Rod ends from Classic Parts 49.95 For the PAIR. I got mine 3-4 months ago and with shipping I think it was about $56.
Classic part # for the Pair is #76-005

If your still running your original steering arms these will fit right in. No reaming or anything. Drop in and tighten up after you take out the old stud ball.

You can also order them from some places like Advance Auto ect but they were a lot more expensive!! I think they get them from Rare Parts @about $90 bucks.
I like the ones from Classic Parts but in actuality the tie rod ends are from CPP (Classic Performance Parts)...if you go to their web site the part # is #4759. Mine were still in the CPP box.

The original-style tie-rod ends from Rare Parts are or listed at about @$129. They were under $100 about a year ago. O'Reilly's might stll sell them, but you need to give them a part number.

I wanted to update my parts as well and looked at all the options. I planned on installing tapered tie rod ends myself but due to the difficulty in removing the old balls and the cost of tapered reamers I went a different route.

I sent my pitman arm and steering arms to Sid's Axle's http://www.droppedaxles.com/. He finished removing the balls, taper drilled the holes, supplied the tie rod and drag link ends, and made new tie rod and drag link tubes for not much more money than it would have cost me do do a lesser job.

I am totally pleased with the results and have a totally adjustable drag link that makes centering the steering wheel easy. I have no affiliation with Sid but rate him as one of the best vendors I have dealt with and a superior product.

Chuck

Thank you for all the replies. I am retaining the OEM steering arms and liked the looks of the CCP units.

I alos like the idea of the adjustable drag link as suggested by Curt B., and after perusing the tech tips section, I think I will also use this setup. Before doing so, I will consult my local machinist to make sure he has the tapered reamers needed for this. If not, I will order a complete drag link because mine is completely worn out.

The ability to adjust the drag link sure made a difference in how my truck drives. It gave me the ability to center the gear box dead on straight ahead. It no longer wonders around since the gear box is adjusted with the proper preload.

Do what you can to make adjustable, you will notice a difference if the box is in good shape.

Joe

Try this
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/Tie-Rod-Upgrade/Tie-Rod-Upgrade.htm

As this is a older thread i thought an 2020 refresh might be in order, I am going thru the tie rod/adjustable drag link update/replacement process on my Art Deco ’46.
Am using the “non taper” tie rod ends (available from the usual old truck specialty suppliers) that fit into the existing ends without reaming.

I will say right now that modern cars went to taper rod ends for a reason, and going down that tapering path may well be a better longer term solution.

I took a few measurements of the wheel alignment (with toe plates) and tie rod centers for later setup.
After disassembly/removal of the linkages, mounting arms, & pitman arm from the truck I removed the ball ends without a press, just cut off the ball end with a 4” mini grinder/cutting disc, ground it flush/flat to the arm using a grinding disc, (i did not grind at all on the peened side), then put the arm over a socket and used a 5lb mallet & 5/16” x 3” bolt to drive the remainder of posts out of the arms, driving from the ball side pushing down/out thru the originally peened end. It takes a few hits to get going but once each moved they drove right out. Hold the drive bolt with a pliers please.
This worked for the pitman arm and the 3 steering linkage rod end mounting points.
For the drag link..... (see update below!)I ordered a new long tie rod, and a 2nd pair of left & right tie rod ends, i will use the new rod to replace the existing long rod, & will cut the old long rod and rethread the right hand threads to use as the adjustable drag link. (see update below!)

Update: I won't be using these same tie rod ends for the drag link, in my view the straight post ones sent me do not have enough Y axis (up/down) range of motion, on the 46 the front drag link joint is subect to greater up/down from body roll than i believe these tie rod ends can tolerate. Am looking into the taper/reamer fitment option to allow more choices.
chuck

Victor Machinery Co. has taper reamers of all types and sizes at reasonable prices. They also have LH thread taps and dies.

www.victornet.com

I buy a lot of machine shop supplies and cutting tools from them.
Jerry

I did update process and taper angles but not in the original thread. See here:


https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...Main=128898&Number=873426#Post873426

There's a simple, easy way to turn straight shank holes in Pitman arms and other pieces of steering linkage into tapers, but it's a procedure that doesn't need to be posted on the open forum. PM me for details if you like.
Jerry

C'mon now! Post it! I like learning something new!

I get into enough fire hydrant watering contests already! No way I'm going to open up a 5-gallon bucket of worms on this subject!
Jerry

What is the problem with the straight shank replacements? Mine are working just fine. The peened originals were straight shank.