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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 | i asked this question in the lounge and got no response, so i thought that i would give it a go here..... I am putting together my wish list for this late winter/ early spring projects. i have decided to keep my '55 with the solid axle, with an upgrade on the brakes. Also i am going to 'warm over' the 235 that it has in it (once the brakes and steering are done - so more like next year). my question is this - i need to make it easier to steer because of a bad neck/back. are there other options besides adding on power steering? it seems to me that i remember hearing that there are some other options to help the steering on these straight axles other than power steering. someone once told me about a different setup that changes the mechanics and runs a rod across somehow to increase your leverage with manual steering. is this like what was used in cars of the same era? is this something that is/can be done? or is power steering my only option? i am running radials, with good pressure. and also i still have the original steering wheel. i would like to keep the steering original, but as time marches on that is becoming less of an option.
thoughts, suggestions? thanks
Build 'em to Drive 'em
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Well, narrower tires will really help with the steering effort, as well as keeping everything lubed and properly aligned. My truck has original steering that I refurbished with new king pins and spring shackles and it really improved it. A proper alignment made it a joy to drive on the road- it steers really well and you wouldn't know it didn't have power steering. I am running 235-70R15 tires and they aren't too bad to steer if you aren't trying to parallel park. I am going to go with a narrower tire next time. The big steering wheel really helps. The trick to unassisted steering is to not bother to try to steer unless the truck is moving. That really saves on tire wear too.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#8603 01/06/2003 10:20 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Two options that I know of, but I'm not sure if the first still exists. Used to be you could by an assist kit, it was a pump and a cylinder that clamped onto the steering linkage. It would add some "help" to your manual steering. Second, there was an article in Classic Truck mag (I think, it's at home). Described how to put in the power steering out of a 67-72 model. Looked like a good setup.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
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#8604 01/07/2003 12:54 AM | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 | www.classictruckshop.com/t1.asp Hope this helps. Regards, Wannabe 
"Don't expect anything and you'll never be disappointed"
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 385 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 385 | I feel for ya, man. I have had extensive neck and back surgery and fighting with manual steering seemed like more than I would be able to tolerate. However, when I was finished rebuilding the steering box I put tall tires under it and aligned it; it steers very smoothly and doesn't require much effort to turn once it's rolling. Parallel parking is still a chore, but in the end I decided not to go with power steering.
I expect to have a change of heart on this eventually (I'm not getting any younger), so please keep us posted on your progress and results. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 | Thanks guys, i am getting ready to put disk brakes on the front and i am just trying to weigh my options for what to do with the steering. it does fine when it is rolling (did kingpins, rebuilt box and practically everything else last year), but as hedgehog states, parking is a chore. And, since i drive mainly around in town it is the parking that is getting me. one bad twist, and i just ruined a good day of drivin' around with a sudden jolt of pain that keeps me from driving and tinkerin' on the truck for a spell. i may opt for the later model power steering that has been suggested, but i will have to see how everything else hits the ol' wallet. if all else fails, i will just have to keep rounding the blocks until i find a corner spot- the extra walking wouldn't hurt i am still interested in the consept of increasing the leverage on the steering. i sware that i have heard of it before, i just can't seem to remember the specifics.... CRS is setting in again.
Build 'em to Drive 'em
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 398 | Bishop-think of "leverage" in terms of what happens when you spin a wrench. When the bolt is REALLY tight/rusty, a normal wrench won't turn it. When you change to a longer ratchet (or breaker bar with a 6-foot pipe on it!) the bolt turns easily. Probably the only way to increase leverage while decreasing effort is to put a greater distance from your hands to the center of the steering shaft-hence, a larger diameter steering wheel. However, you are limited by how big of a wheel will fit your cab and still allow you to slip onto your bench seat! I have heard about the "add-on" power steering assist rams, but apparently the kits are as expensive/MORE expensive than the late model box swap kit. There may also be complications with excessive force bending the tierod, cracking the frame at its mounting point, etc. Here's a link you can check out: www.bonusbuilt.com Yeah, I know, it's a **** site...nonetheless, he presents some pro's and con's of the two different PS upgrades. It's worth a read. Hope this helps, sir. Regards, Wannabe 
"Don't expect anything and you'll never be disappointed"
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | There aren't that many ways to increase the mechanical advantage (leverage) without adding power. One is to put in a bigger steering wheel, which won't work for a fat man like me. The other is to find a steering gear that takes more turns to move the wheels around. On that, I know the principles involved, but don't know the ratios or what boxes would work. I can certainly sympathize with you, my shoulders/neck are a wreck so I avoid driving my 52 where I have to crank the wheel a lot. And my 69 has power.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 49 | yup. i believe that it was Archimedes that stated "give me a fulcrum and i could lift the world".....or something like that due to geometry i am pretty sure that a longer pitman arm out of the steering box to a different drag link won't work, (or be effective enough) but if one were to adapt a different box, so that the pitman works side to side insted of forward to back, then run to a center link, you could possibly increase your leverage, i think. (rack and pinion like) i definately don't want to try to reinvent the wheel, so to speak (oops, that was almost a pun  ) but i was just wondering if there was anyone out there who has done this.... looks like power steering to me. i have a column and a manual box from a '68, so i may start looking at some adapter kits. or just use the box... i'll keep everyone posted. and hopefully i will get a digital camera soon, so i can start putting some photos up.
Build 'em to Drive 'em
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#8610 01/09/2003 10:34 AM | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 571 | | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | A shorter pitman arm will increase your leverage if you can find one that fits.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
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