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| | | Forums66 Topics128,066 Posts1,055,876 Members48,428 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | So... Im going crazy having my truck at someone else's house and not having the time to go there to work on it...
I have other plans in the works for getting it to a better place to work on but in the meantime I'm FRUSTRATED!
So I want to start taking parts off and bringing them home to work on and then storing them till they're ready to go back in...
So where should I start?
Ideal canidates would be things that are fast to remove and will keep me busy and feeling like I've finally started my project. I also don't want to remove anything that will keep me from trying to get the engine running as i plan to spend a weekend day with a friend at the truck to see if we can get it going shortly.
Where to begin????
Tj | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 | First off a thorough inspection of all mounting location for cab doors hood fenders and bed. Check floor pans cowl inner fenders. Find out how much work it really needs or any portion of the truck that need major attention. Do'nt want to get to far into it and have to redo something you've already done. You can pull of all the trim and strip/paint. make sure window roll up good and latches work. Start making a list of thing that need replaced. Between the gentalmen (and ladies) on here and Ebay you can find a lot of parts. LMC Truck, classic industries and numorous other places have parts. Shop around for the best deal. Never stick to one source.
What year truck is it?
Don't get frustrated. it's going to take alot of time. I've done many cars and trucks and patience is something you must have or you're wasting your time. Have to make it something you enjoy or you're better off buying something already complete.
Good Luck!!! | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | Start with the interior: instruments, wipers, seat, heater, etc. then go with door components, trim moulding, etc...you get the idea..
A you really don't need anything left intact to start engine. Simply connect battery directly to engine to start. Fuel can come direct from fuel can sitting on roof of cab (don't even need fuel pump).
Incidentally, I started the same as you and it took about two months before I had to have the truck in my garage. Good luck. | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | There are a few pics on my very young blog ( link in sig) or you can go here for the bulk : My flickr- truck pics I agree with the need for assesment comments and I have started that, but that takes a lot of time at the truck. I know my cab is in poor shape and have yet to decide if I will repair or replace it. Hood and inner and outer fenders are in pretty good shape by the looks of it. Outward appearance of the truck is pretty good (one reason I got it). Where it's hurting is the floor and cowls.. I'm looking more for bolt on stuff to start logging some "little victories" | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 | Can you bring it home or do you live in a complex? You could do a small gravel bed and by a car cover then tarp it off if not. You don't have to have a garage. Unless that's where the tools are. If you end up getting a different cab it may have components in better shape than you currently have as far as small items. But if you have good small components those could be cleaned up and painted. I would start with a major inspection first. check the frame over well also. Don't want to start restoring something that would be better for parts. Sounds lik | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 19 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2012 Posts: 19 | Maybe get a little trailer?
I have a big 2 ton 6400 in a distant building and it's sometimes hard to make a drive out to work on it, and have all the needed tools/resources in one place. Pick-up truck works to transport big stuff, but you really don't need to un-load a trailer. Everything from an engine, front clip, to cab, to fenders fits one way or another to my 5X8 trailer (and the neighbors hardly know its in the back yard if I use a camo tarp!). You can even work on the stuff while its still on the trailer. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 | So where should I start? I also don't want to remove anything that will keep me from trying to get the engine running as i plan to spend a weekend day with a friend at the truck to see if we can get it going shortly.
Where to begin????
Tj The answer to your question may be at the end of my post. Or it might be advice from another Bolter who has more experience. Anyway, here are my thoughts. There are many things to consider before you begin. I was cautioned with this good advice . ."Don't pull it all apart at once". The reasons are many, but mainly because the project will become overwhelming as you see all the work ahead. Try to figure out the answers to these questions. 1. What do I want for the final result? Daily Driver? Show truck? Weekend toy? etc. 2. What is my budget? Be realistic! 3. What are my skills and what can I reasonably learn during the process? 4. What is my target date for completion? Or maybe it will always be a driver with work in progress? What I did may not be right for you, but I'll share it anyway. I was a little cash poor after I bought my 65 1/2 ton. Sooooo . . . I decided to remove the bed and start with that. That allowed me to do something to the truck without making it undrivable or unmovable. It was still a complete truck, just without a bed. It was time well spent as I saved some money too. See the link to my BLOG at the bottom of this post. My engine doesn't run right now. And like you, I will eventually want the engine to run, but even if I get it running tomorrow, I couldn't drive it until I thoroughly inspected the brakes . . you see where I'm going with this. You can pull the bed off in an afternoon, take it home in pieces and work on it for a month or more. It won't cost much and you haven't made the truck into a pile of parts that will not move until someone has time to reassemble them. After that, I'd get the brakes done, then get the engine running so you can move it around under its own power, then decide where to park it while you restore the cab and engine compartment. There is plenty of help here on the forum to keep you going forward. Take your time. | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | Thanks for the feedback. Keep it coming  The wife supports the project but doesn't want it in the back yard... so if the truck comes home (in garage) then the corvette is in the driveway or I have to find a place elsewhere for it. (not an option during the summer :)) Great point about the trailer- I have a 4x8 trailer ill be using to move stuff, but hadn;t really considered working off of it. 1)Final result: I want a 1 ton truck that can work like one... Dumping flatbed with stake pockets and a goosenech hitch. good for loading people on in a parade or pulling a single car carrier/trailer. Going to keep it original and reuse all I can to keep budget down but may consider newer axles/brakes and a little lift( in conjunction with a 4wd conversion) as time progresses. This is not going to be a show truck, but a presentable driver and something i can take to a local cruise night. 2) Budget: Depending on how I do paint I'm thinking ill be somewhere between 5k and 15k. it's going to be frugal up front in the build and i will delay some of the more costly items. ( i have plenty of cleaning and dissasembly to do before laying otu big money. I have a descent parts list started and with ALL of my wants and needs. I'm at about 18k but that includes many things that may not happen like axle swaps, tons of chrome, new engine, pay for bodywork/paint etc. (need: 8k want:10.5k) 3) skills: I can be pretty resourceful. I have good mechanical skills and have some good contacts at a metal working company for sheetmetal work or machining. I plan to learn to weld and have a very skilled friend. body work will be a learning experience, but like i said, this isn't going to be a show truck... 4) Completion: I would say realistically this will be 5-10 years... time will be tight with a growing family and that will always be my priority. I'd love to say 2-3 years but I just can't see that happening. I do know this, my dad said I have to have it out of his place before my firstborn is married! She's going on 2 y/o so I have at least 30 years....  | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 | Now that I have seen the pics - I guess my advice to do the bed 1st seems silly! LOL!! They weren't up when I typed my advice.
Well, then I guess I like the idea of taking a little bit at a time home on the trailer. I couldn't blame you if you wanted to get it running first and getting the brakes repaired. Looks like a great project and it should be fun. | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | HA- yea not going to be working on the bed much...
I definitely want to hear the engine run! That’s up there on the list but will take some time "on site." You know how it is, IRWIPI (20 years ago…)
Brakes I like the idea of starting on them, but I don’t want to put them back together until the axles are cleaned up and painted. Not sure if I’m going to have the chassis stuff blasted or wire brush and POR-15. Found a guy that will blast all chassis parts- prime and paint and blast and prime the sheet metal for $1500. Seems like a good deal but IDK if I’d rather save the money and wire brush since it’s not going to be a show truck. Either way, I don’t think I want the brakes off for that long and not be familiar with how they go together. I’d also lose the ability to roll the truck around and would expose the spindles if I did that I think.
| | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | BTW: Since when was 1992, 20 years ago???
Turning 30 this year and starting to feel OLD!!! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 | I have been driving and working on my 'burb for almost 40 years. Been so long that I have rebuilt the engine twice. But basically I've been driving it the whole time. Starting to run out of things to do except body work.
Get it running. Make it safe. Drive it. Find out if you really love it BEFORE you spend all that dough.
Kurt | | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 | I absolutely agree with Kurt. Also, if you DO love it then driveing it will help keep your motovation up.
And take LOTS of pictures as you go. Even the simplest thing to take apart can be a real head scratcher when it comes time to put it back together, even after a day or two. | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 19 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2012 Posts: 19 | After seeing your pics, I can tell your truck is in need of similar extensive work like mine! My first question to this board was on whether to remove the whole front clip, or take off radiator/grill to remove my engine (motors mildly frozen).
On your truck, since you too are dealing with two locations, may I suggest the possible idea of removing the front clip, loading it on a trailer, then working on the engine while it sits in truck? Lots of room to get to it.
I have found it very important to keep ANY big sections of the truck always able to roll (just in case you need to move it). That truck could split in 3 workable pieces that 2 could transport individually on a small trailer. Remaining chassis (with new bed or pintle/gooseneck) would even fit easier on big trailer or even tow better (if needed you can thin truck down by removing 1 each of outer rear duals). 1) Front clip with whole radiator, inner/outer fenders, headlight parking wiring, etc. {that's enough work to keep you busy a while!} 2) Cab ,with all interior etc.{more work now or for winter} 3) Try and leave motor, steering, brakes in a "rolling" chassis & frame. If motor doesn't need a rebuild, you can do the frame easier, brakes, wheels and maybe hear it run and shift gears. If not able to fix engine, pulling motor/trans will be a breeze.
I intend to get mine running and then decide if I want the cab/clip restored. A lot of my local paint shops would prefer me to have a rolling clip and rolling cab versus a whole big truck cause it takes up less room in their shop, moves easy, and the job goes faster.
Your progress will go faster if you can easily get to the work.
Good Luck and whatever route you choose, take more pictures! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | T_JM, you may not be building a "show truck" but regardless of what you do..... do it once and do it right. There are options along the way that you can do well without breaking the bank and then there are a few things that in order to do it Once/Right you have to spend a few more dollars.Use good common sense and work on it EVERY day....at least 15 minutes...EVERY day and you'll be surprised how it moves a long. Good luck...we're here to help so keep us posted. | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | Thanks for the words of encouragement!
I keep looking at the truck thinking, there isn't much too these old trucks. Consider how many parts they have compared to newer vehicles... Why can't I finish it in a year or two??? Just trying to balance my excitement/motivation and be realistic at the same time! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | It isn't the number of parts, its the trying to get them, that takes so long. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | i relate to having to keep it some other place than your home. thats why i got rid of a truck due to logistics and it broke my heart but i got over it. what i would do first is not to work on the truck despite all the excitement and motivation. id work on getting it so you can work on it at your place whatever that involves. then start working on it. at least that way all your *hit is in one bag not to be misplaced or lost in the move. i would work on it in this order brakes, steering, engine. i ran all my trucks for at least a year just to get to know them before i did anything major.  | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | That's a great point you guys have had about getting to know the truck and driving it before I dive in. I'm just not sure it makes sense in my case because its not like I can drive it with the floor and cab mounts how they are and i don't know that i want to put a bunch of effort into a temporary fix on something like the floor.
As far as location- I have a friend in the process of buying a farm about 10 minutes away. It's probably going to end up in his shop where we can work on it together and i'll have full access. We can do the major stuff there and I can bring bits back to my house to work on. The other option involves a lot more moving stuff around. I could bring it to my house each winter and ask if I can store my other car at his place. But that would limit my work space at my house and his shop is a ways down a rough/steep road for the corvette.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 | Tj_M
Hey, you could always build another garage. LOL
Anyway, sometimes temporary fixes are servicable and don't take a whole lot of effort. I cut a piece of A/B exterior grade ply to fit over the rusted out floor on the drivers side of my burb in 1973. Floor mat fits right over it. Still there after 39 years.
I'm finally gettin' around to thikin' about fixing it.
Kurt | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | I'd like to think a pole barn is in my future, but probably not for another 5-10 years and at our next place. We'll likely be buying my inlaw's place in the next 2-5 years. 30 acres to spread out on and an 1820's house to keep me away from my car projects... My main concern is that the cab is safely attached to the frame  I guess I could cob something up. Block it up into position ( so the pedals wont rub) and bolt it down... i could then at least drive it around the property. It just seems like it wont take that much to get the cab off which will make replacing all the brake lines SOOO much easier and at that point it wont take that much to get the frame blasted while it's off.. then i'd be "done" from the frame rails down... The truck is pretty complete so i don't expect it to take much to find parts. I know i'm gonna regret making that statement.... | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 800 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 800 | I think that I'd grab the fuel tank first and take it home and clean it up really well. You'll find through a search what you need to do. Get some new fuel line and replace the tank and line. Next time grab the fuel pump and line and maybe the carburetor. rebuild them. No need to replace them, there are kits for both items. Don't forget to stuff the intake with a rag before you go back home. So now you have a new fuel delivery system. Perhaps you are now feeling pretty good about this thing. You go for the whole front axle perhaps. Big job, but lots to correct in one shot. Send it out for new kingpins. New wheel bearings. New spring bushings or new springs if needed. Get it back together and do the brakes. Paint the wheels after you get new tires on. Go back and put the front axle back under the truck. Next grab the master cylinder and R&R that. (you need a break after that axle) And so it goes. You don't need fancy brake lines. Grab what's there and duplicate them at home with plain steel lines. Take pictures and reinstall them when you're back for more project pieces. You could do this for MUCH less money than you are planning on. BUT, it will take more time. Next time you are full of it, grab the rear end and take it home. You know what to do now. You are just about driveable at this point and can bring it home or to the neighbors for that minimal cab repair. Grab a stolen Stop sign to tack onto the floor temporarily, until you weld in new floor patch panels. This is how I see it. In the new economy, keep your cash outflow to a bare minimum. You can get crazy stupid with money in the next decade, not this one. Best o' luck.
| | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | Great advice! I like that... Only minor modification is I dont know if I want to keep the tank in the cab. I was thinking of hiding it under the future flat bed so I want to be careful about spendng too much effort on something I wont use. I guess if its clean enough to save i could do that for now and if its rusted out, go the other direction... front axle: i have access to a press and can probably get the kingpin bushings reamed as a favor  nice to have friends in machine shops  they have to be reamed after pressed into the axle right? it would be nice if i could ream them first when the fit in my hand.... Once I have the truck moving, it will of course be easier to bring it to the house for a day at a time.. Carb: should I try to get the engine running before i even touch it or just assume it's gonna need a rebuild and then have to readjust everything on my start up later? | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | The gas tank will be perfect for practicing my welding skills!
lol j/k
*disclaimer* This was a joke. It's never a good idea to weld on a gas tank as it could explode. For those that do there are special precautions to take and I do not know what they are. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 | On the carb, It probably does need attention. Take it off and take the top off and have a look see. See if the accelerator pump moves. Is it full of crud?
It will probably be a Rochester, but it might be an aftermarket Carter. Get the tech info and research how it comes apart and how it goes back together. Take your time with it. Get a good kit. Clean it carefully and study it. Don't force anything. Carb cleaner, water and compressed air are your friends. Oh, did I mention the camera? Take pictures and post here.
Carbs are not usually difficult, just fussy.
Kurt | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 271 | Yea, I've done them on briggs engines before.. I imagine they are relativly similar..
Tj | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | ....a rubber gaa line in a plastic jug and get engine running. If its running OK then jump on the tank ect....first things first. Just don't put the cart before the horse!!
OOOK, now its time to get to work. There is sooo much small stuff you can do without spending much money. Do them as you come to them, then wrap them up and put them away for later reasseembly. Your can do it. Now let the fun begin!! Thats what its all about anyway. | | |
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