| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (GA Boy, LAROKE, dt235sd, Sjm, jmoore, klhansen, 1 invisible),
102
guests, and
4
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,179 Posts1,057,138 Members48,463 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 150 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 150 | What's the best method of finishing new oak for a truck bed? This will be a driver, not a show queen so I want something durable that looks decent. I was thinking of something that penetrates like tung oil but wanted to find out what the experts say. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 | Read this thread on finishes Oil wood work but it ain't the best. With oil the rule of the as far as the number of coats is: 1 coat a day for a week, 1 coat a week for a month, one coat a month for year and one coat a year for life....don't know about you but that's a lot of work. Varnish is the way to go!
....David
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 150 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 150 | Thanks for that. I did a search and got so much I couldn't find what I was looking for. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 | I went with POR-15 and Blackcoat top coat. It was expensive, but tough as nails and looks good. I found that White Oak has a lot of tiny pores, so you have to sand between multiple coats until those pores are filled. Also, the grain of the wood has all but disappeared on mine. I like the look of it though and I will probably never have to do anything to the bed in my lifetime! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | ...just be sure to stand the boards in a pan of whatever you use to seal the ends. Thats where a lot of problems start. A good overnight soaking will do the job.... Thanks to bolter SW Radial for that tip. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 13 | I believe the best wahy to prep the boards is to use Seasonite. Seasonite will a crystaline surface on all the pore walls. On oak it will work within a short period of time because of the porosity of the wood. You can soak the boards in the seasonite for a couple hours then let them dry. The best finish to put on top and bottom is clear marine epoxy finish if you want to see the wood. You must do top and bottom. Seasonite will work by itself but a top coating will give a lasting protection to the top.
Jerry Rogers
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 117 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 117 | i used marine stain , tough 4 coats , than a sealer 5 years ago , looks great today yet! remember BOATs are in water all the time! good luck mick
Last edited by mickster; 07/04/2012 1:09 PM.
care to chat write back
| | |
| |
| |