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Hey guys I'm in the market for headers. I know I need the block hugging headers because of my ls-1 install. Question 1) is all the block hugger headers the short style? no long tube type? Question 2) What is a good brand, hooker, headman? etc...
Any in put is appreciated.

Patriot headers are a good price with a variety of styles including application specific - and ceramic coated ... and handled by Pertronix

Bill

"Shortie" block huggers will rob you of a little torque. If you've got room, add an H-pipe after the headers to help compensate.

Pay the extra $$ for the ceramic coated ones. They will stay looking good for many years. I had plated headers on a previous vehicle - they changed colour, and eventually started to rust. The coated ones I have on my truck now have stood up great.

My experience with Hedman tight tuck headers. My project truck came with a new set of headers. Had the exaust system custom built prior to new engine start up. The headers leaked from the welds and no way to fix them. Hedman would do nothing because I had no warranty. So had to buy a new set of same headers to fit custom exuast. Point is make sure you have a good warranty or return policy. Al

Why do you think you need headers? Generally, they increase the noise and temperature under the hood, and are almost impossible to seal adequately. Leaky gaskets and burned spark plug wires will be a constant problem, and unless they're custom-made with equal-length pipes from each cylinder, there's little or no power advantage over stock exhaust manifolds.
Jerry

Also a word of advice. Never start up a new or rebuilt motor with your coated header on. The start up will burn your coating.
Just my experience.
Al

So the headers that are ordered from people like hooker,headman,sanderson etc.. wont have equal lenth pipes from each cylinder ? also just about every vehicle truck and or car i have seen have headers, did not know that there were that many issues with them ?
Thanks for the info

headers don't necessarily "have issues", and in some tight situations they're necessary ... good gaskets properly installed should work fine, and if the ceramic coating doesn't cut the heat enough, there's wrap available that does the job .... headers have been around for decades, and I think you can trust the name brands to know how to design them, they will be 'tuned'

Bill

Two things I have learned about header installation over the years are first, to save gaskets, use a thing layer of high temp silicone sealer on both sides of the gaskets. If you can plug the small leaks, they will never grow into larger leaks which is the common gasket failure.
Second, I read from street rodders that they sprayed the inside of the header tubes with spray lithium grease on chrome headers to slow down the "blueing" effect. I tried the same thing on 2 sets of stock headers and was amazed at how long the factory paint survived. It is supposed to burn in and create some sort of protective coating. I can't say that I understand it, but I do believe that it works from my experience.

Any exhaust system is a compromise, whether it's a factory cast iron manifold, or some sort of header. Based on the results my family's race team has documented on the dyno since the early 1950's, headers can make a considerable difference in horsepower and torque- - - -either adding or subtracting it. Gas flow from the air cleaner to the end of the exhaust system must be considered as a whole, not just the performance of the header. Generally, the longer the individual exhaust runner is, the better the low-end torque will be. Shorty header pipes build lots of top-end horsepower, and severely restrict low end torque. If your street machine is going to spend most of its time wound up tight in 1st. or 2nd. gear, go for the headers.

The best-performing headers I ever used were custom made for a 440 Dodge engine in a pull truck. All 8 tubes were equal length, and just a shade over 8 feet long each. They helped us develop a massive amount of torque to break away and get the sled moving. The engine topped out on the dyno at 714 horsepower at 6500 RPM, corrected for temperature and humidity, on one Quadrajet carburetor and gasoline. We won a bunch of truck pulls with that engine!
Jerry

Project 51, headers are designed for a universal range of operation. When you start talking equal length pipe, tube size, collector size or length, you are getting in to very specific header design. Each set is custom made for the vehicle they are going on. Yours would be complete different from someone else's. The whole vehicle is looked at and how it will be driven before any designing starts.

For your situation, you would be better off using a free flowing cast iron manifold if all you can get is a shorty header. The manifolds will out last the headers and work equally as well. To gain more performance, you need a long primary tube header with a 2 1/2"- 3" collector. To big of a pipe diameter hurts as much as having to small of a pipe diameter, more length increases torque but can lower peak horsepower. The key is to use a average length and diameter to get a decent power output at all rpm ranges.

I would look in some of the LS-1 sites for information. The guy's running them are make tons of power with few modification and could probably steer you in the right direction.

Joe

Hey guys thanks for all the info, I'm no mech. by any means. I definitely know how a header works though. The issue is even the stock manifold off of the ls-1 won't fit my application. so i opted for the shorty block huggers. I'm mainly snaking my steering now so I needed the headers in place. I'm going to leave all the performance up to an engine shop. My project is for more reliability than get up. With that being said I'm sure we will add a few power adders to make her not be a slug !!

I've had the same hooker super comps on my 65 c10. It's a 383 CID chevy with an 871 bds blower. Only issue Ive had was gaskets. I just doubled up the cork style and its worked for over a year. I don't baby it when I drive either.

The best thing to remember when comparing one brand to the next is not the cost of them, but the quality. Thick flanges of 3/8" or more and 16 ga primary tubes and collectors go a long way to extend life, but add to the cost.

Good point port. I've had the hookers on el caminos, c-10's and cameros. Big and small blocks. They're well built. Fat flanges and thick primary tubes. Collectors kinda tick me off though. You'll have nice diameter primary's and have a 2.5" collector. Most guys here are into manifolds I take it though.. Us young punks like hot rods. You guys just want your high school cruiser back.

Project 51, which header did you use on your LS1 engine??
Thks!

i will have to look the first set did not work ended up getting a raw deal on them, vendor said that the coating was coming off when i sent them back, funny thing is that one was never taken from the box or unwrapped !!! simply took the hit and ordered a new set. the brand i ended up with was sanderson I think but I will check.

I'd recommend against the wraps. They hold in moisture or condensation. Whatever it is, it's wet and leads to problems. I've heard of titanium dipping the headers. I think most major brands offer that option now. Headers aren't cheap by any means. The good ones will say "tuned" next to a part number or a discription. I looked at the hooker super comps for my motor, they were like $700 dipped. Good luck in whatever route you take.