The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1952 Rear end gear change

Hey all
I am wanting to switch the rear end gears out of my 52 truck without changing the rear end with a newer one. At one time I knew Jim Carters had a higher gear ratio set I culd swap for mine. Can't find it on their website now. Any one know who sells these? Thanks!

John,

If you are referring to a 3100 (1/2 ton) enclosed driveshaft rear-end, Patrick's in AZ makes a 3.55 ring&pinion replacement (and separate bearings/bushings/seals installation kit). Almost all thew reproduction parts vendors sell Patrick's 3.55 gears, but call Patrick directly and ask for a Stovebolt.com discount (because you have read such nice things about him on this discussion board).

http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/

Once have the gears Brother Tim mentions above, check out my Webshots page. I tried to take photos each step along the way.

Hi sweet. Were the gears hard to replace. Could a decent shade tree mechanic (me) do the job? Or is it better to farm out the job?

Thanks

Oh. How long did it take? More or less

Thanks again

If you have a good attention to detail, Patrick has written directions that are easy to follow. They are step by step and the photos on my Webshots page kind of go along with them.

I have done 4 sets now without any issues. I'd say give it a shot. Feel free to send me a PM or start a thread here if you have any questions.

If you have no major cleaning to do from any bearing failures, and you have a tool to remove the bushing, this is a job that can be done in a few hours. Realistically for a first timer, I'd say it would be a good weekend project.

I assume the bushing is the 'okie bushing'?

Correct. The most frustrating part of the job for me the first time was getting this bushing out. I had a buddy who own a metal lathe make a tool that fits on the end of a threaded pipe to remove mine. Here is a PIC

There are other ways to remove this bushing. Take your time and this job can be done yourself!

You can buy a removal tool from Jim Carter for $53. I also think there's a jobber who rents them with a deposit, but not sure who it is.

Jim Carter's bushing and seal removal tool (50% of the $53 is returned as a gift certificate when you return tool).

As SWEET states above, this tool is only needed when you need to remove an old original bushing or a worn-out Okie bushing AND you are not taking the rear end apart.

If you are taking the rear end apart, you can push out the old bushing (original or Okie) from the inside of the disassembled torque-tube. I have done this twice with a 5'-6' length of metal plumbing pipe (I forget the diameter - 1.25" to 2"). You need the largest diameter pipe that will fit inside the torque-tube without scraping the wall - a diameter that is larger than the diameter of the driveshaft end. You simple place the plumbing pipe inside the torque tube and hammer the pipe against the inside surface of the bushing/seal.

Note: at the end of the earlier torque-tubes there is a "stay-pin" that holds/locks the original bushing in place. That pin has to be removed (maybe someone will post the years in which this pin was used)?

I found SWEET's photos to be quite helpful.

Some of the TT have a ring inside (mine did) so you need to be careful not to damage that. This ring seats the bushing during installation. I haven't come across a pin yet......

If the torque tube has a ring then it dictates which way the bushing goes in? Otherwise, it could be inserted backwards?

Thanks to all

You can put the bushing in backwards. Patrick's directions does a good job preventing this. Basically the end with the seal goes in first, the larger end faces outwards so that the yoke can fit inside. If you can't slip the yoke between the splines of the prop shaft and the bushing, the bushing is in backwards.

Thanks for all the advice and pictures. They are a great help

That pin has to be removed (maybe someone will post the years in which this pin was used)?

Under group numbers 5.450 and 5.451 DOWEL & KITS, Propeller Shaft Bushing and Seal (look at "NOTE:")

Looks like all 1929-1950 1st design torque tube bushings had a "stay-pin"/Dowels.

From 1950 to 1954 2nd design torque tube bushings , all bushings were press fit.

More info: 1949-53 car shop manual under "REPAIRS"
And Here 1948-51 truck shop manual under "Replacement (1950-51)"

Oil Seal for all years was press fit.

Thanks