The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine Siezed

I have a 52 Chev 3100. After sitting for 24 years I have dragged it out of the weeds and am trying to get it running again. Engine will not turn. I have put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. Waited a couple weeks for it to work and then tried to drag is down the road in gear to break it loose. Tried forward and in reverse. No luck.

Does anybody have a suggestion short of taking the thing apart? I have heard that I should try Coke in the cylinders next.

Any help would be much appreciated.

I ran across a similar case a couple of years ago with a buddy of mine for a truck he was considering buying.... although I believe we stopped short of dragging down the road as that was not an option given there were no wheels on the vehicle. What was the result of your dragging it? was everything locked. What did it do? What is the general completeness situation of the engine; Are we talking a rusted hunk of junk, or a fairly well and complete unit that retained it's hood? it goes without saying you will want to pull the plugs and disconnect any accessories such as generator, water pump, fan, etc. HOpe others can help you..

The pull & drag routine is a good way to destroy everything below the pistons- - - -bend connecting rods, break the crankshaft, break axles, transmission, clutch, etc.

The best penetrant I'm aware of is Kroil, made here in Nashville.

www.kanolabs.com

Pour 3 or 4 ounces into each cylinder, wait about a week, and you can drain it out of the oil pan and pour it through again. It will creep right through the rust around the piston rings. After a few cycles of soak/drain, put a big pry bar on the flywheel teeth through the clutch inspection housing, and try to rock the crankshaft back & forth. Another way to get a pry bar to the flywheel is to remove the starter, and use the squared-off tip of a carpenter's wrecking bar in the hole, prying against the teeth on the flywheel. Just don't get crazy and break the ring gear teeth off!
Jerry

Truck is in decent shape. Hood has been on all the time. Engine is complete.

When we had it on the tar the wheels just dragged on the tar. No turning at all. The front five cylinders seem to take more mystery oil but the back one doesn't seem to take anymore. I assume that is the piston that is stuck.

I will try the crowbar on the flywheel and see what happens

Thanks

Perhaps the truck sat for 24 years because the motor was siezed.I can't help but wonder how bad the motor will run if you do get it loose

I hope you didn't put the plugs in after adding the oil. That would be a good recipe for a bent rod due to hydrostatic lock.

Since it sat for such a long time it would be best to pull the head and have a look see. Many times these old engines will get a big build up of rust and deposits in the combustion chamber from just small amounts of moisture. I would not force it personnally. Pull the head and have a look.

Pulling the head would not be a bad idea and checking the valve train because you probably have stuck valves too. I've got several of these old motors to run after years of setting stuck and almost all of them had stuck valves witch will result in bent push rods. Some ran good most didn't, most of the time if you get the motor to turn over you'll find the rings stuck in the pistons bad valve seals and as big Rick pointed out rust in the cylinders. If the carb was open to the elements you've probably got a couple of cylinders full of water and what ever else happened to make a entrance. If you don't pull the head just keep adding the magic potion in the plug holes and gently try the pry bar to the fly wheel with the plugs out. If or when it turns over it might be a good idea to remove the oil pan and clean out 50 years of colected sludge and filth so the oil pump might have a chance.

Well, this gives me alot to think about. The engine is complete and never out in the elements. Hood has been in place all this time.

I didn't know about not putting the plugs back in when trying to pull it in gear. Hope I didn't ruin anything. I think my next step will be to pull the head and have a look see.

Thanks for all your advise. Ever Onward.

Kroil, set for 24 hours, Kroil, set for 24 hours, Kroil, set etc., etc.

Maybe rodents have packed your bellhousing full of bedding material(made a home).My 1954 261 engine was packed full of mouse house material.I had a heck of a time getting the clutch and preassure plate off.

That aero Kroil looks interesting. Is it only available online through them or is it in stores?

I bought mine online. Haven't seen it in stores.

Kano laboratories generally sells to businesses as their products are biased toward industrial maintenance, but they will ship direct to online buyers. Something to do with "Industrial use" products. It helps to have a business name and/or a sales tax number if you're going to buy in quantity.
Jerry

You can get it at Eastwood without using a business name or sales tax number. It is $19.99 for the 16.5 oz. aerosol can or $62.99 for the gallon can. It is a little pricey but it's good stuff and works great.
Eastwood can be reached at http://www.eastwoodco.com/ or 1-800-345-1178

It's a lot cheaper on line dirct from KANO labs. They will send you a free can if you buy one.

I needed to replace a can I got from a friend. When I went to KANO they would only sell it to me by the case. Of course I called them direct. Is their online policy less restrictive?

It seems I bought one can on line and they sent me a free one. Then I bought a case. They send me flyers every now and then offering a free can.

Have had good luck with Kroil!!