The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Hydraulic Floor Jack Lifting Points?

This morning I went out to Wally World and purchased a 2 ton floor jack. I want to put Lucille up on four 2 ton jack stands so I can get a better idea of what is going on with my brake system. I have jacked up the rear axle and placed two of the jack stands just inside the springs underneath the axle. My question is, on the front can I lift the truck up at the center of the front axle with out doing any damage to the axle? I mean that's allot of weight up there! I'm planning on placing the other two jack stands under the axle right under the springs. Will that be OK? I've never had the whole truck up on jack-stands before and am a little nervous.

We jacked up a lot of them that way for many years without a problem. If you're concerned about the possibility of axle damage, just jack up one side at a time by using one of the spring mounts on the frame. Straight axles are built rugged enough to handle bumps at road speed, which will create a lot more stress than using a jack on a stationary vehicle. These things aren't toys- - - -they used to WORK to earn their keep!

BTW- - - -that "2 ton" jack is a toy- - - -don't put any part of yourself under the truck until it's supported firmly by jack stands. Those little bitty floor jacks are deathtraps! Here's one I'd consider to be a minimum to safely lift a stovebolt truck, and then only on a level, smooth concrete floor. The professional-type jacks sell for upwards of $500.00 for a reason.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200303997_200303997

Jerry

Thanks Jerry,
DONE!! Just needed to hear a vote of confidence!! I lifted her at the center of the front axle. No problem!

Jerry,
BTW, I hear what your saying about the "toy" floor jack. I would never trust a cheap jack and would never put myself under the truck while using one. I bought a cheap one because I really don't plan on doing this again.

I thank you for your concern. At 64 I don't want to get crushed. When you get nervous about something that's the good Lord warning you! Now I can go look at my brake system.

Good information.

I would "ALWAYS" put a jack stand under any thing before putting myself under it. This is mandatory if you are removing the wheels and tires. I don't trust any jack. It only takes a few minutes to be safe, protect yourself and prevent damage to the vehicle.

Jack stands are a must when placing your self between the truck and the floor. I have jacked up the truck however via the center of the front axle without issue in the past. Not something I could recommend though.

I haven't been able to find any documentation about how and where to "lift" a Stovebolt, and in my case a "46. Has anyone run across the directions on the proper way to jack these vehicles up? I mean today when you purchase a new vehicle, and this has been going on for some time, you get that info in your owners manual. Any sources out there?

Today, the vehicles have flimsy jacks, independent suspensions, and uni-body construction - very few strong points under the body.

Out trucks have strong frames and full-width front and rear axles.

Since bottle jacks were the "standard" (optional, usually) GM implement for our trucks, my guess is that you put it under the frame, under or near the front or rear axles, and jack it up (to remove a wheel).

Later vehicles (cars) used bumper jacks to lift them to change a tire.

In general, any part of the bottom frame rail should be a fine place to lift. For the front, I like trapping my jack pad between the u-bolts on the axle. That way it can't slide at all.

I would also say, as an added safety measure, chock the wheels.

I never lift a straight axle by placing the jack in the center of the axle. Lifting near the shackles where the axle was deigned to support the weight is the safer place to lift.

FYI: To adjust the camber on a straight axle they strap the tires down and placing a jack in the center of the axle, thus bending it to change the camber.

In 50+ years of being involved in straight axle bending, I can't remember ever jacking one in the center to change camber. The anchor point is always just inboard or outboard of the spring, and the axle bending is done between the spring and the spindle, up or down. At least that's the way the Hunter Engineering advanced level alignment school in St. Louis taught me to do it. "Your mileage may vary".
Jerry

Chocking wheels or setting the brakes is a definite mistake. The vehicle must be able to follow the movement of the jack arm, so always have it free to roll- - - -trans in neutral, brake released. Otherwise, there's a possibility of pulling the jack off the lift point since there's no way to follow the slight fore/aft movement of the jack pad.
Jerry

....Jerry, I'm guilty as charged. I never set the park brake but I do leave a vehicle in park or in gear most of the time.... does the fact that the jack will "roll" as you lift not count on a smooth concrete floor?? Just a thought.

I agree with jack stands and depending on the reason I can see chocks being used. My day had MANY mulitiple broken ribs when a vehicle "rolled off" and on top of him. 1960.

Most jacks have such small wheels they have a hard time rolling to compensate for the radius change as the pad lifts. Only the big professional-type jacks have much chance of the rollers moving as the lift is made. The tiny wheels on the hobby jacks are just about worthless. Once the jack stands are in place, chocks or setting a park brake might be a good idea.
Jerry