Quick question about a remote full flow filter on a 261. Since the outlets in the block a 1/2" in size shouldthe oil hose be 1/2" or is 1/8" acceptable? I think it would be safer if the lines to the filter and all the connectors are 1/2" in size. My local parts store said 1/8 inch connections wouldn't hurt the newly rebuilt motor. I figurd I'd ask the experts on the Stovebolt site.
Restriction on 1/2" lines is less than .010 pounds per foot. On 3/16", it is roughly 2.2 pounds per foot. I can only estimate that a 1/8" line would provide over 5 pounds per foot restriction. I think that would be too much. Definately much higher than G.M. engineering originally calculated. Are you sure you don't mean 3/8"? That is about .025 pounds per foot. I will probably install that size using steel lines.
1/8 would be OK if your engine set up for a by-pass filter, but would be insufficient for a full-flow, that is to say that if all the oil from the pump goes through the filter before going to the rest of the engine. 261s have been set-up both ways.
If your 261 has 1/2" NPT holes for the oil filter lines, you have a 1958-62 261 that was set up for a full-flow oil filtration system.
Do you have the original full-flow canister? If so, it will also have the 1/2" NPT fittings. Go to another parts store (a NAPA that makes hoses, should be able to do it). Or, look for a heavy truck repair shop.
I would not go smaller, it would restict oil flow, and I would be concerned that the higher pressure would damage the filter.
There are many oil folter housings that can be found online or on eBay. Keep looking, you will find what you are looking for.
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If your engine is set up for ther full flow filter, you will definitely want to stay with the same size all the way. As a matter of interest,I replaced the old style feral fitting lines on my filter with hydraulic lines which are rated at 5000 psi. It also carried a high temp rating but I don't rememer what it was. I carried the old line, complete with fittings, to our local Grainger store and told them I wanted to duplicate it with a hydraulic line. It was not that expensive. meansam
Thanks for the answers!!!! My motor is done and ready to be installed in the firetruck in the morning. I'm still trying to figure out what happened to the first rebuild that was done back in November 2005. I think I've figured it out. It was the oil filter(235 by-pass cannister) and the oil lines that restricted the oil flow to the engine once it was running.
Today as I looked at the canister filter and the oil lines, I noticed just how small the diameters were. At one point, it looks like a large pin hole and nothing like a 1/2 flow the motor would need to keep from scaring the bearings and crankshaft as happened to mine. Even the by-pass fliter cannister had a very tiny hole in it for oil flow. Back in 2005, I told the motor shop I was going to use a filter so they put in the lines and cannister filter I gave them.
In the morning, I'm going to pick up 1/2 lines and a remote filter adapter so this time around, my motor will get full oil pressure and flow.
A very expensive and time consuming experiance... I've learned even more today. I want to say thanks again. I think I've got it now...
I used 1/2" nitrile lines on my modified 235 block. The bulk hose and Russell -8AN Twist-tite fittings are available from Summit/Jegs and possibly your local parts supplier. Also a spin-on filter relocation mount that allowed me to route the lines away from the exhaust pipes. I used the 3/4X 16 thread version so I could use a filter (Purolator PL-30001) with a built-in bypass valve should the filter ever clog up.
The Twist-Tite fittings will not pop off or leak but can be re-used by cutting the line. They've been on my truck for almost a year with absolutely no problems. I have pics in my Webshots "Tips and Tricks" album that might be of interest for your install. Hope this helps.
I'm going with a modern spin-on filter with built-in bypass valve, mounted directly to the block and double-flared 1/2" copper tubing. The lines route behind both exhaust pipes. Safer, more permanent and choice of quality filters.
That is exactly what I want as I can paint it to match the motor and it will be less noticeable. I'll see what the hydrolic shop can build for me in the morning. How did you mount it to the block? Got any instructions, measurements or plans? Anything will help. Thanks.
I wanted to replace the filter from below without any obstruction. Got a little extra length tubing to make a few practice flares and bends. Learned a lot doing this job. Looks easy when it's all done, but took a lot of planning, measuring and finding the right fittings and copper. Sure takes some practice to make good and clean flares and bends.
On the Road's looks like the same set-up I did on mine. I used brass fittings with stainless steel pipe. Made up a plate to mount the remote spin-on adapter as well.
This has been a long thread, and I sure don't want to rehash old news, but isn't a bypass style filer suppose to have this restricting orifice in it. I was under the impression that the pump forced 90% of the oil to the mains, rods etc, while a small amount was shunted off to pass through this filter.
The device that made sure the oil took the path of least resistance...the main oil gallery and not the filter, was this little restricting orifice.
I used a by-pass oil filter And my motor installer ran lines from the by-pass filter cannister to the block. I guess that I misunderstood the full flow vs. by-pass oil system. Finally, I think my motor installer was clueless about the diverter on the 261 block. They know about the 235 but a full flow 261 is a little different.
I just had the motor rebuilt a second time and I found the 1/16th restriction on my block again when I brought it back to the firehouse to be reinstalled. This time, I understood what I was doing and changed it to 1/2" connections before the motor was damaged a second time!
Do you have the dowel pin pushed in the block? If you do Don't start the engine without the oil lines connected, or you will be back where you started from. If you don't have the filter run a line from one 1/2 inch fitting to the other so the oil can get to the crankshaft. The plug pushed in blocks the main oil galley to the crank and send it to the filter. If there is noway for the oil to get from the 1/2 port in the front to the 1/2 port in the rear, you will be replaceing the bearings again.
Yes the dowel is in. Thanks for the warning and heads up. I understand that I have to connect the 1/2" oil outlets. In the morning, I'm going to add a full flow modern spin on remote adapter once I put the motor back in the firetruck. I didn't want the lines to hang up as I was trying to fit the motor back in two the frame.
Bill; Are you using a remote filter kit from NAPA? The fittings look like what I originally got from them. They look like the ones that use Goodyear high pressure/high temp black rubber hose. If that is what you are using, make sure that the lines are well away from the exhaust manifold as well as the down pipes. I used the NAPA kit and when it was all done and I put Patrick's duals on the Fentons, the rubber hoses were only 1/2 inch from the down pipes. Too close for my liking even with heat shield over the tubing. I took the hoses out, changed to dual compression fittings and installed hard SST pipe. Just wanted to make sure that your hoses (if that's what you are using) don't get too hot, burn through and leave you on the side of the road with no oil!!
I have the same concerns. I have the 1/2" black rubber hoses but I didn't get any of it from NAPA. I'm not ready to start the motor until I get the radiator shroud to fit and mounted properly. Once that is in, I intend to run the motor with the rubber hoses just long enough to make sure it runs well(a couple of days) then change the oil, filter and put in the hard metal custom fit oil lines. I have a firefighter friend who works at a local hydrolic line shop who will make my metal lines for me.
I came up with this setup for my '61 235, it's from a VW Microbus air-cooled motor. Easy interface adapter plate and away we go, Will fit lines shortly.
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