The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop powder coating do and dont's

hey don't know much about powder coating but want to learn. what can i use as a filler. i know i cant use bondo. i ordered high temp lab metal but doesnt seam to work very well. can i use body solder and lead? any ideas i know its has to conduct electrical current thats all.

It would be nice if you told us what you are doing and what you want to powder coat and why you need filler. Normally things that get powder coated are solid metal pieces and frames of trucks, not sheet metal with dents? Body parts get painted not powder coated. If it's a steel bracket or other with too many holes or gouges: Weld and grind baby! Remember, as a new guy, to explain what you are doing, and to what.

tryin my best to smooth a frame. i am working on a 51 3100 that i am going to resto mod. i would rather powder coat than paint. but if i cant get the results i want for power coating. i will have to go the paint way. so i can use spot filler and primer. i was wondering if i can use lead for a filler for powder coating. never tried it but would love to learn.

Have you researched how they PC?
Curing

When a thermoset powder is exposed to elevated temperature, it begins to melt, flows out, and then chemically reacts to form a higher molecular weight polymer in a network-like structure. This cure process, called crosslinking, requires a certain temperature for a certain length of time in order to reach full cure and establish the full film properties for which the material was designed. Normally the powders cure at 200°C (390°F) for 10 minutes. The curing schedule could vary according to the manufacturer's specifications.

The application of energy to the product to be cured can be accomplished by convection cure ovens or infrared cure ovens.

From wikipedia

If you are not short on money, powder coat is great. However, nobody sees the frame well enough to get a bang for your buck. Also if you chip it you can't "fix" it very easily. It also closes up the hole diameters a bit. You want to "learn" powder coating, that's fine. You can't do a frame, a hobby kit ain't good enough, big enough and you don't have a huge oven that goes to 400F. Fill and smooth the frame with fiberglass embedded filler, sand nice and paint. That way you will learn filling, sanding, smoothing and painting. I don't know your age or experience but if you are new to restoration, leading and powder coating would be for your future possibly. It is hard enough to restore a truck as it is. There are many, many disciplines to learn especially on a restomod project. Fabrication, body work, welding, smoothing, painting, engine, trans, linkage, plumbing, wiring, brakes, fuel systems, rust removal, parts locating and repair, upholstery, carpeting, window and other weatherstrip install, steering system and so on. If you are a pro already and want to learn a new thing, buy a PC kit and do some small stuff. Get a Lead kit and go for it. Lead melts at about 500F, which is higher than the PC. Lead is different now than back when. It's called body solder and is 30% Tin/ 70% lead alloy. much safer to breath. Contact a PC Company to see if it is sufficiently "conductive". My opinion on body solder is that the fillers available are very adequate and long lasting if prept right and a good quality brand is used. No need for lead except if you have run out of stuff to do and want to create more headaches, can't imagine that!

my first full on restoration. the reason i am doing this is to learn more. i am very mechanically inclined. i haved worked on cars and trucks most of my 41 years. have also trained many mechanic helpers over the years. when i managed my parents car dealership i personelly did all the intricate mechanical work with the help of an assistant. i directed them to the point where it got down to the real business such as rebuilding engines and what not. have also customized several trucks in the past. a 72 chevy, a 82 chevy and 92 chevy the 92 i was told it was good enough for shows but i didnt thick so. i am the type of guy that can pretty much figure anything out. being house remodel to custom cabinet work to rebuilding anything mechanical. so i am not worried about any new procedures or techniques. the fun to me is the building of the truck. i will probably sell it as soon as its done anyway. thats what i always do. so i am ready for anything especially if it takes me out to the garage or family room as we call it here. yes its as comfortable as the house. any way i will look into leading and call the local powder coater to see if it passes his muster if not i will use lab metal or go the paint way.

Understood. You will be a good source for leading and PC questions. If I had a garage it would be my family room also.

Mo, why not smooth up your chassis and buy a $50 quart of POR15. I'm sold on it for the hardness, even flow out and it will not be exposed to sunlight. (had no UV protection) and if needed can be easily touched up. Just a thought.

Didn't mean to call you a new guy but when you started this post it said "new guy". I see now you are "power posting" and getting your numbers up. Now you are a wrench fetcher. Super.

whats power posting and whats this wrench fetcher stuff. on here to get and give info when i can. i think its fun not trying to be anything special just like to give and get advice. i am either on the computer while watchin tv or working on my truck. i cant just relax i have to be busy or asleep.

Under your name "MO" it says "wrench fetcher" right? When you started the post here it said "New Guy" under your name. In my post I called you A NEW GUY and now I realize you are now called "Wrench Fetcher" because you have reached a certain number of posts. What is it you don't get? I was explaining to those who read this string the reason why I said new guy because they would not know it said new guy at the begining. It's not a rude comment.

My 2 cents is this: The frame sure flexes allot, I don't know if the powder coating on the frame might crack, then you get water and junk under it. I was always amazed how much my 1 ton would twist when driving over uneven ground. I've never had anything powder coated, so I don't know.

Bartomos i wasnt sure how or why my title(new guy, wrench fetcher) changed. so when you posted i was power posting to get my numbers up i didnt understand. thats why i posted back wasnt trying to be rude just didnt know what you were talking about. sorry for the misunderstanding.

Our plant has a powder coating department where we paint mostly aluminum. When we have buggers in the metal and a little body work is need, we use J-B Weld as a filler. It will take the 400°F for the 10 minutes it takes. Granted, we aren't painting truck frames, just small (2-foot x 5" x 3/4") parts, so if you have huge areas to fill I would imagine it could become a little pricey.