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#812331 01/02/2012 1:27 AM
Joined: Jun 2010
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J
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Anyone have any recommendations on where to get a supply of various sized bolts, nuts and washers to be used during my restoration. Running down to the hardware store every time I need a replacement is eats into my restoration time. Thanks John


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
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I was lucky in that Ace Hardware is just a mile and half from my house....but to save time I found its better, and cheaper, to just buy a box of what you even think you will need. 1/4", 5/16, 3/8" are probably the most common depending on what your working on. I usually get a box of 1" length and 1 1/4" as the same washers/bolts work on them. A box of the bolts, washers and nuts will definitely save you time and probably save gas in such that it'd pay for the stuff. I kept a piece of paper on the work bench for those sizes I needed but do not have....and waited until I "went to town". Ace also carries Stainless and Grade 8 bolts.
I might add that it's good to have a decent tap and die set if you don't already have one. For me I threw away the cheap stuff and just bought the taps as I needed them since I rarely ever need a die....if I do I borrow it from my nephew!!!

Some time ago, here in Spartanburg, I went to Carson's Nut & Bolt and purchased a "bolt bin". I kept it simply. Only 72 cubby hole unit and got the most common sizes I use. Cost a few years ago, including the bolt bins was $150 bucks.

IF not Ace Hardware then go on line to someone like McMaster-Carr or maybe even try Tractor Supply Co. if you have one.

Hope this helps and I'm sure someone else may have better ideas.


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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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John
It's been awhile since I picked up a JCWhitney catalog, but I do remember them having nut and bolt kits at one time. They were various sizes and lengths. Harbor freight also has some of these kits too. I'm not sure of the quality, but it sure beats a trip to the hardware store every time you turn around. I'm not for sure what you're working on or what you need a bunch of hardware for, but LMC has bolt kits for just about everything on these old trucks.


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Try and locate a hardware surplus store in your area. I am lucky to have a great one nearby and buy all bolts,nuts, and washers in any grade,style or length by the pound. Amazingly cheap.


Drew
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I would be very careful buying an assortment of bolts in bulk unless you know what you are getting. Many of the cheap assortments are just a grade 2 bolt. I would nerver use less then a grade 5 bolt and prefferably a grade 8 bolt. Also make sure your nuts and washers match the grade of the bolt you are buying.
Just for what it is worth.
Jim

Last edited by J M; 01/02/2012 6:17 AM.
J M #812462 01/02/2012 1:34 PM
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Same as Alvin I have an Ace about 1/2 mile from the house,I would go there with a list than buy in bulk to save trips .
On my new build a 53-GMC I'm going to order by the box at McMaster Carr only 1 mile from the house.

Pete

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I use Tractor Supply. They sell nuts and bolts by the pound, you can just get a handful of what ever you need, in grade 2,5,8. They are typically cheaper than a hardware store. Though I still use a local hardware store for some specialty fasteners and metric stuff.


1947, 1950, & 1952 Chevrolet 1/2 ton
1952 GMC 450 series Cab Over Engine
1946 Chevrolet 2 Ton
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Hiawatha Fasteners is incredible, they have the biggest selection of nuts, bolts, screws, stainless fasteners, and all of it is by the pound too. They have really good prices as well. I see your in NY, There is a location in Watertown, NY and a Location in North Syracuse, NY

Good Luck!




http://www.hiawathafasteners.com/

J M #812563 01/02/2012 9:20 PM
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Originally Posted by J M
I would be very careful buying an assortment of bolts in bulk unless you know what you are getting. Many of the cheap assortments are just a grade 2 bolt. I would nerver use less then a grade 5 bolt and prefferably a grade 8 bolt. Also make sure your nuts and washers match the grade of the bolt you are buying.
Just for what it is worth.
Jim

Jim, I understand your concern, but this is a highly respected business and around for a long time, so trusted. All that kind of item are clearly cataloged and all self serve. I have spent over 2 hours in the nut,but portion of Fazzio's wharehouse just perusing. They sell anything related to construction, electrical,mechanical services big and small. Gladly take anyone there for a tour sometime. Just allow plenty of time. OK. Sales pitch over. grin


Drew
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Drew
I realize that there are many good hardware dealers that you can get good products from. I used a spicific supplier in the shop I was in before I retired. I was thinking more of the discounters and mail order places that have nut and bolt assortments for sale.
Jim

J M #813999 01/06/2012 10:48 PM
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Thanks guys for your thoughts.


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
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So, just wondering, do you guys replace the Chevrolet clutch head screws with slotted or phillips?


A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired.

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Hi, Super55 I use phillips screws for two reasons, #1, the screw driver stays centered in the screw and #2, it is round on the outside like a clutch head.


Keep the 216's running. 1949 1/2 ton model #1314 (US 3104) Brian
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Guess it doesn't matter unless you want it stock right down to the screws.


A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired.

1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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I get rid of the clutch heads and so what hippy said.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

I also do what hippy describes, when I have a clutch head screw/bolt that is unusable and I cannot find a clutch-head replacement.

The clutch-head screw was originally marketed as being superior for centering a screw/bolt driver and for allowing the use of a straight-sided driver having better engagement with a straight-walled recess in the screw-head.


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