The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Need help on glove box

My glove box cover latch bracket is broken, I was wondering if any of you could give me the shape, size any specks on that latch bracket. the cover is in good shape and hate to buy another just because latch is broken. I plan on fabricating part and welding on. Any help would be greatly apprciated.

I see 69 of you have read my delema. All I need is for someone to take a profile picture of the bracket with dimensions where bends are and size of square hole where lock latches. Otherwise I will have to make bracket in the dark. The glove box doors cost too much and they don't sell the bracket alone due to spot welded to inside panel.

Are you talking about the catch that was spot welded to the glove box door?

Mine broke so I took a big heavy duty washer and bent it. After grinding it down a bit, I used sheet metal screws to attached it to the door. Of course, my truck isn't a restoration.

I have a pic on another computer and will post it when I can.

Here's the picture.
-
Glove Box Catch Plate (or whatever it's called).
-
-
-

Wally / Montana : that's some good thinkin' right there.

-W

This is the latch I made for my 1950, 3604 because my original latch was missing also:

The picture:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/140281508/large
The drawing:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/140281509/large

Denny G

Wow, nice fab work Denny.



-W

Just tryin' to keep it original Woo.
dg

DG,

I see the bends from the one sheet on the print... but how did ya make the cut for the tab?

Just trying to learn something new.

-W

The material is only 1/16", I cut thru the three sides with a freshly sharpened 3/8" chisel
then drove it out with a square punch. Once the tab was separated on the three side I
formed the main curve around a piece of round stock and used a smaller piece to form the
tighter radius on the tab.
I copied it from a spare door that had the original factory spot welded latch still on it. My
door was in good shape except for the latch being broken off. The spare door had a bad
crease across the front and there is no way to pull it out since the front and back are spot
welded together.
I tacked the latch to the door with the TIG then made a couple of minor adjustments after
installing it.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

neat.

Thanks for the explanation.

That's good tech there.

-W

Wally / Montana that was a very good idea seems like it would work!

Denny Graham I love your drawing and picture looks original I guess? I don't have one to compare with. Thank you so much with the detailed drawing and explanation of how you curved the latch catch. I'm a cadd designer and a drawing is perfect wasn't expecting that detail. Seems like alot of AD truck owners have this broken latch problem.

Thank you guys so much for the info.

That should look just like the original one as I said, I copied it off of an original door that
was bent.
I taint no draftsman but I do like to sketch up what ever I take off or need to make for the
trucks so if it ever pops up again I have the dimensions on file.
My daughter is pretty good at AutoCAD and keeps buggin’ me to use it. But I've tried
using it since it was first released. I worked in the inspection group and we had a seat on
the mainframe where I worked which we used in programming the CMM machines, the
nd we had a seat on it for our inspection group. But the learning curve is to steep for me,
since I’m just a part time user. If I'm away from it for a few weeks or a month I have to
start all over leaning how to use it again and never get any thing done.
I started using Design Cad 3-D back about twenty some years ago when I got my 386SX
and have used it in the 2-D mode ever since to make up the working sketches for the
shop. I can be away from it for six months and I'm back making a usable drawing in 5 or
10 minutes.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Well Denny, I thamk you for keeping up your 2D skills. I pulled your file and saved it on my computer,so when I get the chance to make the latch. I had to pull the stainless skin off due to rust particles rattling inside. Which might be a good thing because I don't want to arc the stainless skin when I weld on new bracket. I whished I had pro-e (which is what I use at work) on my home computer, but it would cost me 30,000 to get license. I can't seem to convince my company to give me the license.

That used to be the problem with AutoCAD, it was about 20K and about 5K for each aditional seat. Since my daughter was a design student and we got a student copy thru the collage, which was very affordable for home use.
But, all I needed was a pencil, paper and a tri-square for my type of work in the shop and my simple Design CAD program is just that.

Hope you have a happy and prosperous New Year.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL