The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Rookie Suburban questions

I'm looking into buying a 51 Suburban project. I'd like to build it into something that I can get in and drive anywhere. My first question, is it possible to do that without putting it on an S10 chassis or is that the best way to go?

Second question, what parts go with the rear side windows? If the parts are missing what are the options?

Third question, are the running boards the same as on the trucks?

Any help would be much appreciated!!!

1. There are about a thousand options and I would rate S10 chassis as about #843. It's been running on original suspension for 60 years and who knows where it's been but I would bet "Anywhere" is on the list.

2. Some of the burb owners will chime in I'm sure.

3. No, I think they are different but I may be proven wrong.

I don't know much about the s10 frame swap,a lot guys are doing it.I opted to rebuild my steering and suspension,brakes to stock standards.I'm still thinking about the front disc brake conversion.Another option I'm told adding a brake booster to the stock drum brake system makes a remarkable difference.I put a third member out of a 1958 1/2 ton Chevy with 3:90 gear ratio coupled to a 13-52-145 t5 s10 transmission.

As far as parts for the rear side windows,we need to see pictures to figure out what you're missing.Parts can be found,some take longer than others.They sell a one piece window kit as well,it eliminates the sliding windows"ebay truckman4787".

The 1/2 ton truck running boards are the same as the suburban.

I can drive my old suburban anywhere at anytime with no problems.It does really good on the highway and keeps up with traffic.

Tim

1. I use 3.55 ring&pinion conversion gears in the rear end and can cruise at 60-65MPH all day. I find my original brakes to work fine (ALL new parts in the brake system and front end and in front/rear suspension).

2. Post photos of what you have, as suggested by Tim, above.

3. Running boards are the same as on all 1/2 ton Chevrolet & GMC trucks from 1947-1955.

Here's a link to what I'm looking at. No engine or trans, most of the glass is there but broken. Steering column is there but not in the pictures. I have a 235 laying around with a powerglide, have a 327 and a th350 somewhere. I would really like to go with something fuel injected though. I really want to build it reliable enough to be a daily driver, comfortable enough to throw the wife and kids in and drive a couple hours.

http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w143/jazn_84/Suburban/

I have driven my '54 burb over 10,000 miles this year with the stock six and stock suspension. It has a late '50s 3-speed OD and power front discs. I drove it to Phoenix, South Bend, El Reno, Kansas City and drove the Lonestar Loop 1000 through the Texas hill country as well as countless local shows and a 160 mile round trip to an Inliners meeting each month.

That's a decent looking starter. The price is about right, but I would offer less because of some of the key missing parts and he has been trying to sell this for quite awhile. It looks like you will need a new gas tank if it has been sitting outside without a gas cap.

Take this with you when you go to look at it. SUBURBAN/PANEL/CANOPY EXPRESS CHECK LIST

Look in the gallery and some of the other sections to get an idea what has been done to these Suburbans. There are quite of few original parts still available for these and lot's of reproduction parts too.

Completed project * Weeds

Good post with pictures * pplummer


Good luck!

....all good advice from guys who know!

For my two cents I'd like to make a comment that we, or should I say "I", drive our vehicles in stop and go situations for hundreds and even thousands of miles. Why would we think we could not make a "two hour ride" at one jaunt?? Thats when they get lubed up and run good!!
Just a perspective I have

Hey Achipmunk
I agree!!! Drive it!!!
Ter

s10/swapping frame Is #843, #1 Inspect and fix up with stock parts and drive, #2 add aftermarket, (built to function/look stock or be hidden) brakes, steering, wiring, bearings, etc. #3 (this one is for 55-59 and is my favorite), Add 73-87 front and rear axles and make it a 4x4 without changing frame. Changing frame has many, many problems adapting to all the stock systems, I.E. brake/clutch pedals, fuel tank, fuel filler, trans, steering, ebrake, body mounts, radiator, engine, bumpers, wheel fits into wheel well. I have done #1,#2 and #3 and studied #843(not for me, too hybrid)
P.S. All my experience is on Suburbans and Panel trucks 55-59. Hope my analysis applies to AD.
GMONIZ? where did he say price?

I find with projects, the more you take on out of the gate, the less likelihood you'll have at completing it before you die.

The S10 frame swap is fine if that's what you want, but honestly, finding a clean and complete suburban would be more important to me unless you don't plan on using all of the factory original parts.

I guess it depends on what you want. Personally, I wouldn't do a frame swap unless my frame was rotten, and I wouldn't start with a rotten frame unless somebody gave me a complete truck.