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| | | Forums66 Topics128,162 Posts1,056,936 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 255 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 255 | Have a 1950 3800 thats been parked for about 7 years. Owner said transmission is good but I've never driven the truck personally, and am in the process of restoring it. With the trans out, are there any tell-tale signs on a SM420 that I should look for to see if it warrants a rebuild?
Easier to do now while its out, but I don't want to fix something that ain't broke. Advice? Thanks! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | Make sure there isn't any large wiggle in the front drive gear at the splined end. Check to be sure the snout that the throwout bearing sits on is not cracked. Pull the top and check to make sure there are no large metal pieces or chipped gear teeth inside and that the forks all slide appropriately. Cycle through the gears and make sure the yoke and splined end turn appropriately. And probably just replace the seal at the yoke end just because.
Drain the fluid and as long as there are no tell-tale signs of trouble, re fill and reuse her.
Those transmissions are tough as nails.
Jeff | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 255 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 255 | Thanks Jeff, I'll check it out. Any recommendations on a good refill fluid? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I think that year had a neoprene shaft seal in the front, which was a real improvement. I would remove the front retainer and put a new seal in. Getting tranny fluid on the clutch is really nasty.
Edit:*** I thought your post said 1958. A 1950 would not have the seal in the front.
Last edited by truckernix; 11/25/2011 2:57 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 4 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 4 | I would use GL4 which is somewhat hard to find. Most everything now commonly found is GL5 which is good for the rear end. This is what I use in a SM420 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-50304/
Last edited by CAC; 11/25/2011 7:35 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 | GL5 should be the next better version of GL4. The way I was explained, the higher the number the better or newer version. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 4 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 4 | GL5 has additives that eat the brass parts found in a SM420. Same thing with the new motor oil, not good for engines with flat tappet cams. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 | IF it's not too late.... and the transmission has been drained, you might remove the transmission side cover to inspect the magnet in the bottom of the transmission to see what may have accumulated there over the years. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 | GL-1 90 wt. That's the stinky stuff. I get mine in 5 gal buckets at Agri-Supply. They will even order GL-1 140 wt. if you want that.
I understand that GL-5 is supposed to be bad for brass or bronze components.
Kurt
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