The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Barn Door lock

So, in my want to increase the awesomenes of my panel, I've decided to put a lock on the back doors to keep the honest thieves at bay. And to fill the unsightly hole.

So, Here's what I've got:
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd45/HomeCrafter/IMGP0001copy-1.jpg

As you can see, I've got the old latch, and I've got a new repp lock.

Now, to get this sucker to work, do I need to file the hole in my door latch bigger, and make it look like the one on the front latch? If I do this, I'm not sure I will get enough "turn" to lock and unlock the latch.

Or, do I want to file down the "stick" on the lock, so it fits in the little hole.

Or, the third possibility, is that my lot latch is missing something.

Anybody have a picture of what this is supposed to look like? (my truck had no locks when I got it)

Thanks a bunch Bolters, and Happy Thanksgiving down in the States.

Lang,I think the length of the rear door lock stick is shorter than that of a front door.I know that the tip of the stick is narrower as well.I wouldn't modify the latch mechanism.Why not post an add in the wanted section for the panel truck rear barn door lock.

The stick has to be placed into the right position on the lock as well.If it's not,it will not lock and unlock the lock mechanism.I would bet the original style stick will fit your reproduction lock.I will look for photos of mine and try to get them posted for you.

Tim

Thanks a bunch. I've learned to slow down and ask, instead of just pushing forward. It's always easier to correct a mistake, before it happens!

the "stick" or "tongue" on the lock is definitely not like my original. The stick your looking for will have one corner of the 4 sides flattened down to fit into the rear door latch.
I do have a rear door latch but really hate to part with it when I bet all you need is the "stick" from an original and it's work like Tim suggested.
I might add that even with the correct "stick" it does not protrude into the actual lock mechanism very far.....just enough!

Also, work your latch over pretty good to where all the moving parts will move nice and smooth. A little grease won't hurt.

If you do not find a "stick" we MIGHT do some haggling on the lock I have. And yes, it has new keys cut for it.
If we do any haggling it'll have to be by PM or the moderator will kick out butts out of this thread! hehehe

Here is a pic of mind.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/Barndoorstuff002.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/000_0161.jpg

My latch is moving smoothly now, and is well greased.

I'd like to either find an original "stick", (I posted a wanted ad) or even better, just grind down my repop one to the right shape- that's the cheapest and fasted method. Plus, my door key will fit both the passenger and barn doors. Locally, locksmiths want $40 to rekey, which is too steep for me. (I'm quite cheap)

Achipmunk, and you post a picture of the end of you original "stick", when the key is vertical? From a picture like that, I can make a trip to see Mr. Bench grinder, and shove the lock in my door.

I will look out in the shop and see if I have an extra rear door lock "to see what the dimensions are". I can't find my photos of the door locks.

Tim

OK,I couldn't find any of my door lock pictures pertaining to the rear barn door.I went out and pulled the lock that is in my suburbans barn door.I took some pictures of it for you.
Basically you need to grind the end of the shaft to a triangular shape.The lock shaft is 1 3/4" to 1 13/16" long and the length of the bevel on the end is 5/8" long.I would cut the shaft to length,then grind the bevel at the tip or end of shaft.The size of the square portion of the stick are the same as the front doors stick.Pay attention to the position of the bevel verses the lock,this is important.
door lock pic#1
door lock pic#2
door lock pic#3
door lock pic#4
door lock pic#5

I hope the pictures help.

Tim

Fantastic! I'll have a visit with the grinder tomorrow.

Is that a Lufkin RedEnd folding ruler you have there?

Yes Sir it is in deed a lufkin folding ruler that I measured the barn door lock with.I would use a good flat file and shape the shaft instead of the grinder.

Tim

Hahaha. I wear out a folding ruler a year, as I carry one in my overalls everyday, and use it for all my measuring. I build wood stuff for a living.

If you like the RedEnd, you might like the Starrett extension ruler. It's a six footer, it folds to a longer, yet narrower package. The best part is, that it has a brass extension, that is fantastic for taking inside measurements.

Not that I'm a big nerd or anything.....

Thanks again for taking the time to help out with this. After all, I wouldn't want some no-goodnick to nick my toolbag outta the panel truck while I'm working. The sad thing would be that none of it's even pawnable, as its all nerdy stuff like my ruler. I don't think there's a big market for "hot" German planes.

Let us know how it turns out and show some pictures of the lock shaft conversion.Could be a candidate for a tech tip article.

Good Luck,
Tim

My response is about panels and suburbans! The rear door lock.
...and yes, offers/advetisements are to be done in the Swap Meet or by PM. I'm poking a little fun at the moderator,Tim&Tony, and also reminding EVERYONE about the rule before it got into a "transaction"....other wise I'd have mentioned money/shipping/addresses ....and you will see that I DID say we'd do it by PM. So, technically, right or wrong, I am trying to obey the rules. Read it as you like.

Gotcha Chip.

Are these what we are talking about ?

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/9937/img6260u.jpg

empire, I couldn't help but chuckle out loud Yep, thats what we're talking about and I can see you have BOTH types. I'll bet some folks are drooling on their keyboards about now!

Say, what you working on. Burb?Panel? Thanks for the picture.

Wow, that's the stuff! I still haven't visited Mr. Grinder yet, darn work.

Ahh, no grinder needed, the stick was made out of my pal, brass. After filing the wide part of the re-pop stick to the same width as the rest of the square, it went in, and the lock works like a champ now. I took some pictures of this stuff. I should type this up and send it in I guess.