The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 or 235 in my new (to me) 6400

Ok guys. I've got my 1950 Chevy 6400. It's got an unidentified motor in it with fairly loud rod knock if you rev it up much without a load.

It's got the two acorn style nuts that hold the valve cover down. Is it a 216 or 235? It does not have the side cover extending up over the spark plugs. The exhaust outlet angles to the rear a little bit.

Just curious. The truck is gonna get dieselized eventually, but still wouldn't mind know what this is.

Thanks!

-Matt

Sounds like a 235...
Best thing to do is find the casting number on the block. It should be on the side below the distributor. Take that to the Inliners Casting Number page linked in another thread here in the Engine Bay.
CTRL-F is your friend for that one. (find on page)

That page will tell you what size, what year and maybe a few other things about your engine (or at least the block).

It is most likely a splash 235.
In 1950-52 the big trucks got the same engine as the Power Glide car engine except with solid lifters.

We had a '50 Chevy 6400 truck for the ranch. It had a 235 with a internal setup using the old 15 lb oil pump but had rod insert bearings. It ran like a top and gave us some really good long term service. While some give this engine a "Splasher" description it really is a "Spray" oiling system. When I did go into it I replaced the oil pump and siphon with a non-Power Glade '53 Chevy pump. It raised the oil pressure on the gauge a bit. I still see it running almost every week when I go to town.
Normbc9

Ok. Cool. Yah, oil pressure runs about 15psi when cold, then drops to around 5 or 6 running down the road when warmed up. Only knocks in the higher rpms. Thanks guys!

It sounds like you need to adjust the rod bearing clerarance by removing a few shims. Either use a piece of Plastigage to get a clearance of .0015" to .002" or put a .0015" piece of shim stock about 1/4" wide between the rod cap and the crankshaft and adjust the shim thickness until a slight drag is felt as you try to turn the crankshaft. Obviously, remove the checking shim before moving on to the next rod! I've even done a little filing on the rod cap to get the right clearance, if all the shims have been removed already.
Jerry