Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,094 Posts1,056,489 Members48,444 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | 
#79127 06/24/2007 6:57 PM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | Here is a question that was recieved at StoveBolt HQ and passed over to my desk.
Hey HotRod Lincoln - this one's for you and others too.
Hi,
I'm wondering if there are any special instructions to install the "slinger", or "wick" on the 216 Chevy. We installed a FelPro BS5048, but we feel it is too thin. It goes in to the groove like paper. We don't need to tuck it in or anything and by the way, this is the second seal we will be installing. It is a real headache. It was leaking like crazy. We have talked to alot of people on this engine, but no one seems to remember or know that the crankshaft has a groove on the end of the crank, that goes into the main cap were the slinger is.Plus that groove is kind of squared, this is the first time we rebuild a 37 Chevy 216, we've done 235. Can you give me any advice??
Sandra | | |
#79128 06/24/2007 7:14 PM | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | I believe the 37 Chevy(very first 216 motor) did not even have a 'seal', just the 'slinger' to help oil from going out the back. You need to get the '37 manual and remember this was a unique 216, rear seal came later.
Also you may want to contact Beck's Machine (see their ad at inliners.org) these people are among the very few that specialize in these OLD motors.
Best of luck | | |
#79129 07/01/2007 2:22 AM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 | I was wondering about this also as the engine in my 38 was supposed to have been replaced in 42 but when we went to replace rear main seal we had to double it. The oil pump also was 37 style not later. so perhaps the engine was rebuilt not replaced in 42. Any way its still throwing oil so more research is in order. The seal groove on my 54 was the proper size | | |
#79130 07/01/2007 3:00 AM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | I think Jim is right on the money. I had never heard of such a archaic thing so I looked at the online '37 engine manual. It shows the slinger...period! No seal. Pretty weird.
Stuart | | |
#79131 07/01/2007 3:35 AM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,833 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,833 | I don't have any hands-on experience with Chevy engines of that vintage, but it looks like you've gotten some pretty accurate information already. Slinger-equipped engines without seals were pretty common as industrial engines in the 40's and 50's. I remember rebuilding a Hercules 4-cylinder that powered a water well drill rig, and it did not have seals on either end of the crank, just slingers.
Be sure the drain holes below the slinger are clear, with no sludge buildup. Once the oil slings off the crank, it needs to drain away quickly.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | |
#79132 07/01/2007 1:03 PM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 | ok that may explain why the 38 starts throwing oil immediately the seals I put in are blocking the drain. | | |
|
|
