The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1953 rear End Swap

I am almost done with my t5 swap in the truck. i already have the tranny mounted and looking nice and now im in the middle of the rear end swap

The doner is a 64 chevy malibu. all of the brackets are cut off and the rear end is rebuilt and ready to go in tomorrow. the question is what is the best way for mounting the new rear.

im thinking of leaving old mounts bolted to leaf springs and cut off rear axle and weld on the new axle

anyone who had done this swap or one similar please respond with pics.

You need to determine the angle of the driveline and set the new axle housing to the same angle. You can purchase a cheap angle finder at Home Depot. Then weld the spring perches. I'd recommend buying new perches instead of cut off old ones.

the old rear end pivots when the torque tube is removed. and rather than sitting on top of the perches the old axle sits behind the perches. its a wierd set up but thats i back in the day. i just dont know if id be better off to put the new one in the same way or change it so the axle sits on top of the perches

.....just my opinion. Get you a pair of perch blocks and sit them on top of you old springs center pin. Then, like cletis says, set the pinion angle and weld the perch blocks.

I did this on my 52 when I went to an open driveline. Just be sure the rear end is where you want it.....like centered side to side and make sure it sits in the fender like you want it to front to back. I tack welded mine and when I get the front end lined up I'm having them do a 4 wheel alignment to make sure its right.....then totally weld the perch blocks.

HOpe this helps

I am curious. How do they do an alignment on the rear solid axle?

...what I'm really looking for is that I have the rear end "in line" with the front so that the vehicle "tracks" right and also that the rearend is sitting centered side to side and the correct distance front to rear or maybe I should just say the wheelbase.

I had cut the old swivel pieces off, put in a 56 pumpkin, lowered the rear 2" and put perch blocks under the housing to be welded....when I know its right.
I think I'm real close as I "measured twice".

...that probably don't specifically answer your question but I'll be there watching when they do it.
I see the "attachements" ect just about every day that I deliver parts to them...and they are also my friends so I'm sure they'll be more than happy to "teach" me when I get it to them.

I feel sure another bolter will chime in here with the real deal.

Thanks, I wasn't trying to be wise. Nothing can come close to the computer alignment equipment that they have now days. I have read several times about this change and I would really like to see how you did it, when you are finished.