The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop What to do first.?.-rusty chassis

The chassis on my 36 Suburban is rusty of course.Nothing rsal bad, We can start taking out dents in roof, or should I take it to Master Blaster guy first..(he's good, He uses Copper Slag as it's gentle on metal) after he's finished, spray with etcher solution and finally Por 15..or wait till the wood roof is assembled, then take it to him? Bruce

Is the frame separated from the body? That is the best way to take care of your frame. The blaster won't get to the nooks and cranny's if the body is on. Painting would be even harder.

Also, make sure that etcher solution is compatible with POR15, that stuff will peel off in sheets if you put something under it it doesn't like.

As jomichael posted, POR-15 is supposed to be used over rusty metal (after removing paint and any loose "material") or a special prep is needed with clean metal.

If you are getting the framed blasted, you might want to just spray the clean metal with epoxy primer. That will seal the metal. I used a black PPG DP90LF/DP90LV epoxy primer. Then you can decide if you want a finish coat or just leave it in primer.

I used Eastwood's Epoxy Primer, but any brand will do a great job. Then I used Chassis Black as a top coat. I've had a few chips in the top coat here and there, but the epoxy is indestructible. The chips are easy to scuff and spray a little more Chassis Black in the aerosol can. Much easier than dealing with POR15 in my opinion. I have used POR15 on the underside of my fenders with a lot of success.

....I think everyone here knows I'm a fan of the POR15. I blast'em clean and then go straight to it with the POR. Its tuff as nails. I've had to grind some of it back off and its tough...and since I used black I can just use some gloss rustoleum right over it. Looks good. But, to each his own.

thanks guys wll make notes and do it right...in two weeks

I'm with Achipmunk. POR15 on rough metal or rust is da bomb. It only ever peels if it's put on something smooth (cured primer/paint, new metal). I've done a lot of vehicles with POR15 (including the frame for the 56 Apache here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74725)as well as testing and writing about it.

That being said, I've just started using Eastwoods products and they seem very good too. I did some parts on the 56 with their Rust Converter, then Chassis Black spray. I actually used the Chassis Black on the side window frames - tough and shiny!

You can check it all out here: www.e-tekrestorations.com

My Blog: http://e=tekrestorations.blogspotter.com/

Another thumbs up for POR-15 from me.....

I know that a lot of guys like POR-15. I haven't used it, but I use Zero Rust with excellent results. It's a lot cheaper and I believe it is also safer to use (I always were a respirator no mater what.)

When you say you use a respirator, are you using it from a spray can or a gun? The Zero Rust rep here gave me a couple cans and although it's easy to use, I just can't see how something can have the same hardness as an Epoxy (POR15 being a "moisture-cured epoxy)and last in a spray can and not even clock the tip. To me it looks more like Tremclad....

I used POR-15 on a lot of my parts & was very happy with the results. I brushed it on & it looked as good as if I sprayed it. I still used a respirator because I am sensitive to isocyanates. Take a look These parts were badly rusted & I just sanded them with 80 grit on a DA sander, preped the metal & brushed on the POR-15.

I use both: spray cans and brush on. I also have sprayed the Zero Rust through a gun after thinning it with lacquer thinner. It's pretty darn hard, especially if you try to get it off. It works well from the spray can. Doesn't clog and lasts on the shelf, both the spray cans and the gallons. I heard once you open the POR-15 it hardens in the can if left to sit on the shelf. I wear a respirator whenever I use anything other than a water base paint. None of those fumes can be any good for you.

..just as info. I currently have a can of POR15 that has been open for quite sometime (months) and I still use it ocassionally.

A fellow bolter, I forgot who, suggested drilling a hole in the top of the lid and pour out what you want to work with then tape it up with duct tape. I have done this quite a few times and its till good. I usually put a new piece of tape back over the hole and shake it a time or two. Just make sure the lid is clean and you rub the tape on real good.
I like this method as it will "skim" fairly quick if not careful. So, I pour out a little at a time so as not to waste it.
oh, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of the lid.
Hopefully this will help someone preserve what they don't use up.

Thought I'd add my 2 cents. Achipmunk is right. It will skim over and the skim is hard to crack to get to the remainder underneath.

I read somewhere that you can pour the POR-15 out into individual plastic bottles, like single serving 16oz. water bottles. They must by ABSOLUTELY DRY before filling. Anyway, you just pour from the bottles as much as you need and then gently squeeze the bottle to remove the air and reseal with the cap. It keeps the POR-15 from skimming and saves the mess from pouring from the can each time. A small piece of plastic food wrap makes the cap seal tighter too.

Just an FYI on spraying POR15, use a FRESH air respirator or risk death.

Remember it is moisture cured, lungs are full of moisture.

Jomichael is correct. We can't say enough about safety and this stuff is bad news. I brush all of mine on and keep a very light breeze blowing the fumes away from me. Just follow the directions on the can...wear rubber gloves, old clothes ect ect.
SAFETY FIRST