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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 183
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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While driving down the road at about 20 mph this afternoon, I started getting really bad noises and vibrations. I stopped, and when I tried to let the clutch out, there was lots of grinding of gears, and it wouldn't move.
Called a tow truck, and when he pulled it up on his bed, the rear wheels weren't turning (even though it was in neutral and the parking brake was off). Actually, first the right one was dragging, then it started turning, and the left one started dragging.

Are we talking rear end problems?

Just a few weeks ago,the engine and transmission were rebuilt.
Coincidence?
This is a stock 52 Chevy halfton with the 216 engine and 3 speed on the column.


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".
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A
'Bolter
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BillyDon,

My money is on the universal joint. Maybe the shop that put the new engine and transmission in wasn't well versed in the finer points of a closed driveline.

Stuart

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,445
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Joined: Dec 2002
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ouch.... jack it up, put it on jackstands and see if you can find any damage, leaks ect...


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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Stuart probably has it pegged. You might pull the cover off the rear end & have a peek. The shaft between the axles might have got loose.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
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G Offline
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Quote
Originally posted by Wrenchbender Ret.:
The shaft between the axles might have got loose.
Are you thinking about the spider gear shaft?

Sounds like a possible cause to me, the retaining pin or bolt could have been left out, then the pin slides out and destroys the pinion while locking up the rear.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
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"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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4
Extreme Gabster
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I would guess that the rebuilder left the lock plates off the universal joint retainer bolts and the thing loosened up and locked up on you. This would be at the joint between the transmission and the torque tube.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
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A
'Bolter
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Quote
Originally posted by BillyDon:
Actually, first the right one was dragging, then it started turning, and the left one started dragging.
Wouldn't this indicate that the lock-up was ahead of the pinion and that the differential action was still working...or trying to work!

Stuart

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G Offline
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Yes, but depending on how the rear locks up it could cause the same symptoms.
Say the spider pin worked out 3/4", enough to keep the spider gears on the pin, also enough to jam the pin on the pinion. In this situation the carrier would lock, yet the differential action would still work.
Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Mar 2006
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Shop Shark
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I'm thinking rear end. Won"t the spider gear turn without the drive shaft. At least on side,???Huh. Had a brother with fo-d 4x4 lock rear end Kepper pin broke allowing shaft to sling out till it hit punpkin .... can you say LOCK UP and flat spot tires?

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Those of you who thought my problem was the universal joint were correct.
It turns out the transmission shop that rebuilt my transmission and universal joint assumed the mechanic who would be reinstalling my engine and transmission would be taking the universal joint apart in the process. So they didn't tighten the bolts or bend the lock tabs. Unfortunately, he somehow managed to put the engine and transmission back in without doing that. The transmission guy was impressed, but thought the mechanic should have noticed the lock tabs weren't bent over.

Of course, the transmission shop thinks they did nothing wrong, and the mechanic thinks he did nothing wrong. But the mechanic agreed not to charge me for the labor if I pay for the parts (it bunged up the universal joint end pretty bad, and the bolts don't seem to have any threads on them anymore).

Thanks for all the feedback.


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".
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'Bolter
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If the mechanic is agreeing to pay for labor, they are admitting guilt. I don't see why they don't pick up the whole ticket.

The tranny guy was wrong to "assume" that someone else would finish up something for him. That was stupid. He should agree to pay for the parts.

Joined: Feb 2002
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K
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Oh joy.... the 'ol finger pointing.....

Agreed, the tranny guy should pay for the parts.... you did nothing wrong, but they are trying to save $$$. If not, the mechanic and the tranny mechanic should talk.... you should not have to pay anything.


1948 Dodge 2 ton
1950 GMC 1 1/2 ton
1952 GMC 3/4 ton
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A
'Bolter
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Kaliburz,

I am guessing what Builder is saying is that BillyDon contracted with someone one to repair his truck in exchange for money. The shop accepted his money in exchange for their labor and knowledge in the repair of his truck.

BillyDon couldn't fix it. The shop said they could fix it. The fix was incomplete because the shop didn't do their job properly...should BillyDon have to pay for the shop to learn how to do what the shop said it could do when it took his money! I think there should be some financial adjustment made. If the shop is reputable, there probably will be.

Doesn't there always have to be a person responsible...doesn't the buck always stop somewhere?

Stuart

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1
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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they should be paying for parts and towing. i work on food processing machinery and if i screw up i make things right: i eat parts and labor and go without lunch because i just spent my lunch money covering myself.

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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All,

Things didn't turn out too bad. The only parts needed were the replacement bolts. The mechanic had a machine shop clean up the yoke at no charge, and didn't charge me for any labor.


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".

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