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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,110 Posts1,056,241 Members48,437 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | I checked most of the popular vendors, has anyone purchased individual pre-formed brake lines? I had to replace the line from the MC to the junction block on the other side, crossing under the tranny. I bought a 5ft line, formed it, cut off one end to fit and double flared it. Obviously I don't know how to make a proper double flare because that fitting leaks like a sieve. '53 3100.
Last edited by magfarm51; 08/25/2011 5:10 AM.
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 | Thats a problem alot of us have ,Allan,some of the better flare tools cost 300.00 + I'm lucky my Son in law has a repair garage and when I'm doing brake lines I go and borrow his ,I would take the old one and some new line to a repair garage and ask them to make you up a new one it would be cheaper than getting one from the venders ,no shipping,and they would use a good flare tool , also it could be the fitting needs to be replaced.
Pete | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | Thanks Pete. By fitting do you mean the junction block?
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 | Like Pete,in the past, I've taken a new line I bent to a local repair shop and they flared it for a couple bucks. Might also check with your local FLAPS...they may do it.
Last edited by Forty9; 08/25/2011 4:26 PM. Reason: add info, fix spelling
Ed
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 | Allan, these guys blame the tool when their double flares leak. It's not the tool, it's operator error.
I use a very inexpensive and basic double flaring tool and get perfectly acceptable results. What's required is to follow exactly the directions that come with the tool.
A little practice and you'll be making perfect double flares every time.
Ray
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 | Yes many times the J-Block is the problem ,but I would try the new line first than you might have to replace the block.
Pete | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | That was my first attempt at performing a double flare with a simple flare tool and I apparently didn't do it correctly. The worst part was reproducing the bend of that particular piece...I'll give it another try. Thanks guys.
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 170 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 170 | Possibly try Inline Tube. I originally ordered the complete kit from them. I later ordered a single section after I screwed up a piece (my fault). | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | I always bought a pre built line and made it fit. I think they come in up to 5 ft lengths. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 581 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 581 | If you have space for a loop with the preformed line and ends, try that. My double flares were not working for me on my rear brake line so I just made a wide bend or loop to take up the extra length of the premade line. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 | I bought a complete brake line from www.brotherstruck.com and it was installed on JDL's truck by brother john i think.
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am.1954 3100 Chevy truckIn the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 | Have you looked at the Poly Armour brake tubing. Comes in single and double flares, won't rust and is just about impossible to kink when bending - that's right no bending tool needed. The only down side is you have to buy it close to the correct lenght and you can't cut it. It's just about impossible to flare on your own.
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | Great suggestions everyone, thanks. I looked at the section and determined I had enough length to cut the flare off and try it again...making sure I followed directions to the letter. SUCCESS!  Brakes are bled with a nice firm pedal. I'm ready to get it on the road.
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 576 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 576 | good for you.....i did my whole system..disc up front,drums out back,m/c under floor,residuals,pressure brake light switch,yada,yada....when we went to bleed it i had no idea a system could leak so much....lol...a little tightening and reworking one flare was needed..but it works ....congrats....dave 1949 Chevrolet 3100 "When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 38 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 38 | Did you consider the copper nickel alloy stuff that is around now? I never used it yet. It seams a lot easier to work with.
I made up several lines over the years using a made up length from NAPA and cutting it down to size and reflaring the cut end.
I use a low end flairing tool that I picked up at a parts store. It is not perfect yet it always works. Attention to detail is very important when double flaring. Also good alingment to the terminus eliminates some potential issues. | | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 85 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2010 Posts: 85 | A good flaring kit is key. The end of the tube should be totally flat so a good cutting tool is also a must. run a drill bit the size of the tube through the end just to de-burr. use medium Emory cloth on the line before you flare. Get the tube nice and smooth. when you flare, use plenty of lube! (actually I am very serious. I use 10w30 motor oil.) when you connect your lines and check for leaks, you may need to re-seat the line...crank down on the fitting....loosen it up, then crank down on it again. You may need to do that process a couple times. OE material is much easier to flare then stainless.
To answer the original question, I dont think you can buy individual lines. A previous post recommended inline tube...great company!!!! Give them a call and ask.
Do something! Even if it's wrong!
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