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Joined: Aug 2005
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'Bolter
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I checked most of the popular vendors, has anyone purchased individual pre-formed brake lines? I had to replace the line from the MC to the junction block on the other side, crossing under the tranny. I bought a 5ft line, formed it, cut off one end to fit and double flared it. Obviously I don't know how to make a proper double flare because that fitting leaks like a sieve. '53 3100.

Last edited by magfarm51; 08/25/2011 5:10 AM.

Allan
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1951 GMC 1/2-ton
Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window
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Thats a problem alot of us have ,Allan,some of the better flare tools cost 300.00 + I'm lucky my Son in law has a repair garage and when I'm doing brake lines I go and borrow his ,I would take the old one and some new line to a repair garage and ask them to make you up a new one it would be cheaper than getting one from the venders ,no shipping,and they would use a good flare tool , also it could be the fitting needs to be replaced.

Pete

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M
'Bolter
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Thanks Pete. By fitting do you mean the junction block?


Allan
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1951 GMC 1/2-ton
Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window
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F
'Bolter
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Like Pete,in the past, I've taken a new line I bent to a local repair shop and they flared it for a couple bucks. Might also check with your local FLAPS...they may do it.

Last edited by Forty9; 08/25/2011 4:26 PM. Reason: add info, fix spelling

Ed
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Allan, these guys blame the tool when their double flares leak. It's not the tool, it's operator error.

I use a very inexpensive and basic double flaring tool and get perfectly acceptable results. What's required is to follow exactly the directions that come with the tool.

A little practice and you'll be making perfect double flares every time.


Ray
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Yes many times the J-Block is the problem ,but I would try the new line first than you might have to replace the block.


Pete

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'Bolter
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That was my first attempt at performing a double flare with a simple flare tool and I apparently didn't do it correctly. The worst part was reproducing the bend of that particular piece...I'll give it another try. Thanks guys.


Allan
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1951 GMC 1/2-ton
Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window
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Possibly try Inline Tube. I originally ordered the complete kit from them. I later ordered a single section after I screwed up a piece (my fault).

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I always bought a pre built line and made it fit.
I think they come in up to 5 ft lengths.

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If you have space for a loop with the preformed line and ends, try that. My double flares were not working for me on my rear brake line so I just made a wide bend or loop to take up the extra length of the premade line.


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I bought a complete brake line from www.brotherstruck.com and it was installed on JDL's truck by brother john i think.


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Have you looked at the Poly Armour brake tubing. Comes in single and double flares, won't rust and is just about impossible to kink when bending - that's right no bending tool needed. The only down side is you have to buy it close to the correct lenght and you can't cut it. It's just about impossible to flare on your own.


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John

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Great suggestions everyone, thanks. I looked at the section and determined I had enough length to cut the flare off and try it again...making sure I followed directions to the letter.

SUCCESS! yahoo

Brakes are bled with a nice firm pedal. I'm ready to get it on the road.


Allan
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Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window
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good for you.....i did my whole system..disc up front,drums out back,m/c under floor,residuals,pressure brake light switch,yada,yada....when we went to bleed it i had no idea a system could leak so much....lol...a little tightening and reworking one flare was needed..but it works ....congrats....dave


1949 Chevrolet 3100

"When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
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Did you consider the copper nickel alloy stuff that is around now? I never used it yet. It seams a lot easier to work with.

I made up several lines over the years using a made up length from NAPA and cutting it down to size and reflaring the cut end.

I use a low end flairing tool that I picked up at a parts store. It is not perfect yet it always works. Attention to detail is very important when double flaring. Also good alingment to the terminus eliminates some potential issues.

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A good flaring kit is key. The end of the tube should be totally flat so a good cutting tool is also a must. run a drill bit the size of the tube through the end just to de-burr. use medium Emory cloth on the line before you flare. Get the tube nice and smooth. when you flare, use plenty of lube! (actually I am very serious. I use 10w30 motor oil.) when you connect your lines and check for leaks, you may need to re-seat the line...crank down on the fitting....loosen it up, then crank down on it again. You may need to do that process a couple times. OE material is much easier to flare then stainless.

To answer the original question, I dont think you can buy individual lines. A previous post recommended inline tube...great company!!!! Give them a call and ask.


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