The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Can't Get Brake Fluid to Bleed

I rebuilt the master cyl and wheel cylinders on my '48 3600. Thought the bleeding process would be pretty straight forward. Fill the master resevoir, open the farthest bleed valve, and start pumping until fluid came out the farthest bleed valve. Them, move closer until all four wheel cylcinders have been bled. Any advice for a guy who has never done this before? My wife's leg is worn out from all the pumping! I disconnected the brake line at the master cylinder (original single stage) to see if fluid would pump out. It does, but only in a trickle. thanks for any advice. Didn't see anything on this in the archived posts.

If you open the bleeder valve and just start pumping without closing the valve while she holds the pedal down you will never get it bled. Its sucking air back in everytime she pumps it. Pump the pedal a few times and let her hold it down. Open the bled valve and watch for fluid/air bubbles to come out. Then close the valve before she lets up on the pedal. Then she pumps it up again and you repeat the process. If your doing this and no fluid is coming out after a few tries to get all the air out then something must be wrong with the wheel cylinder.... I would think fluid should "squirt" out more than a "trickle".

Just to see what happens why not try bleeding some of the other wheels to see if your getting anything at them.

I also failed to ask if you "bench bleed" the master cylinder. They can be a booger if you don't.

Do you have a shop manual?? If not you can find help with the online manuals.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

Fill the M/C reservoir, open all of the bleeder screws about one turn, and go drink a few cups of coffee. The fluid will "gravity bleed" part of the air out of the lines if the reservoir is even a little above the wheel cylinders. Once there's a steady drip from all of the bleeder screws, close them all off, have someone push the pedal once or twice and then hold it down. Open the bleeder, let the fluid squirt out a little, and close the bleeder. Pump the pedal twice more and hold. Bleed. Pump, hold, and bleed until a solid stream of fluid comes from the bleeder. Don't let the reservoir empty itself, or you'll have to start all over. Follow suit with the other three wheel cylinders.
Jerry

Just what Hotrod L said. I've done it his way for 40 years without a single failure to bleed. Good luck.

And start at the wheel with the longest brake line and work towards the shortest one, steel line included.

Bought some speed bleeders for my '57 and I liked them so much, I put them on all my vehicles and flushed the fluid in them all.
http://speedbleeder.com/
You put them in place of the stock bleeders. They have a little check valve instide of them so they won't suck air back in and you can do it yourself. Really goes fast if you have a helper!

For the speedbleeder, do you remember the part number? Their web site only goes back to 1963.

I think the bleeder is 3/8"-24 x 1-3/16" (check the size/threads of your bleeders)

Speed Bleeder: SB3824

Russell Performance sells a similar product: R40526

Earl's Performance sells a similar product: 280021ERL

Dorman sells a similar product: 12701

I bought some at my local flaps. I think they were about 10 or 11 bucks a pair. I put them on the panel and they work real nice and much quicker. I like'em.