| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (Woogeroo, Nick in Manitou, Jon G, baldeagle, FAST55, Hanks custodian, mick53, 50Chevy3100),
51
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,014 Posts1,055,332 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 144 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 144 | '51 3100:
I have a new transmission mount bushing set. They have two holes that the rivets go through. The rivets are...well riveted, so I obviously can't put these bushings on the original rivets. Are people replacing the rivets with bolts? or what's the trick?
Dave www.fallenherosdreamride.orgall give some MY SON GAVE ALL The fallen hero's dream ride is a 1951 Chevrolet 3100 with original 216 In memory of LCpl Phillip Vinnedge USMC KIA 10/13/2010 Afghanistan
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I don't really understand what you are describing here. The mounts on my 51 are on either side of the bell housing. Which mount are we talking about? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 | I believe you are referring to the mount from the rear of the transmission to the cross member. I have both the original molded rubber unit with the rivets and a "rebuilding kit" that is basically two rubber pieces that go between the steel parts and are secured with bolts. I have an extra mount so I can go either way. I don't know of any bushings involved. My original rubber was rotting from being oil soaked over the decades but when I peeled that back the rubber still under the steel seems to be in good condition. The rebuilding kit seems pretty funky and I have no way of knowing how tight or loose to clamp down on the rubber. At least the bolts were supplied with nyloc nuts. I am not really keen on using either set and am trying to justify spending $70+ for Steel rubber to re-valcanize my original.
The $70 is less than a drop in the bucket at this point but there are many posts of people leaving these off with no problems. I don't want to waste money either so I am still undecided which way to go.
Chuck | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 |
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 144 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 144 | I am talking about the mount at the rear of the transmission; The one Drew posted the link to. The two rubber pieces are what I referred to as bushings. From Chuck's post I would assume the SOP is to cut the rivets and replace with bolts.
Dave www.fallenherosdreamride.orgall give some MY SON GAVE ALL The fallen hero's dream ride is a 1951 Chevrolet 3100 with original 216 In memory of LCpl Phillip Vinnedge USMC KIA 10/13/2010 Afghanistan
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Yes, do that. It's easier than trying to re-rivet I think.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 169 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 169 | You can use bolts but you will have to cut or grind the heads thinner to clear the ball housing bolts.
I have some pictures but can't post. Will email if you ping me off list.
Paul | | |
|
|
| |
