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Have this heat switch which is completely functional.

https://picasaweb.google.com/wmhatfield/Cab#5620487957957553538

I would hate to buy a new switch just for the sake of getting a new knob.

Anyone ever revive one of these knobs?

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Look on eBay for a cheap switch and salvage the knob. You do know that is and aftermarket switch right? The correct originals look like this.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2400227690102454676PcEfGN

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Originally Posted by Brad Allen
Look on eBay for a cheap switch and salvage the knob. You do know that is and aftermarket switch right? The correct originals look like this.


I do now! :P I had no idea. Does the correct switch offer speed control or is it just one?

I'd rather have the original!

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Brad -

Where does that correct switch mount?

Why do I see switches described as "underdash" vs "dash heater". My heater is definitely under the dash.

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I have one like this
I have not installed it yet
Looks like it has an off position plus 3 speeds, no light.

it mounts under dash like in this reference pic ...pic...


your old switch is pretty cool and having a lighted switch helps.
If you wanted to try to save it you could try picking up a cheap repo to see if the knob fits.

this one sells for about 12 bucks.


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Bigtonka,
The switch for my '48 truck (like Brad showed us) is 6 volt but I used a resistor to drop the 12 volt coming in and also on my 6 volt heater motor.
The switch has 3 speeds Hi, Med, Lo and off.
I have mine mounted to the left of the steering wheel next to the column there are 2 holes to mount the switch in under the dash, next to the defrost/heat vent pull .
Hope this helps!

Mike

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Is your switch a rheostat switch or a multi position switch?


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
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Originally Posted by Tiny
Is your switch a rheostat switch or a multi position switch?


It's a multi position switch - 3 speeds plus off - and for each of the speeds, the know glows brighter.

I like it, but I'd rather go original. So if what I have isn't factory, I'll find one like Brad / Dads50 were showing.

As for the mount location - it appears that my switch was mounted in the same postion as the factory one.

Thanks guys!

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DADS50 shows the correct location for the switch. There are several different kinds with different things on the paddle and colors. Some say AIR others HEAT and some DEF usually brown or black. Right next to it (to the right) under the dash is the correct location for the fairly rare fog light switch. I will post some more photos that illustrate placement and switches they are on my work computer. You can also see mounting details in some of the accessory manauals I know the 53 version shows it.

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I have a '48 fresh air heater; would the most proper Delco-Remy heater switch color been black? Also, what would a Delco-Remy "air" switch have been used on? I am presently using it + have the feeling it is not right!

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fog light switch

"air" switch off a 1950... big reds truck... AKA Denny Graham

1949 switches off a stovebolt members truck GHOSTRIDER.
looks like a heater switch similar to big tonkas on the left
cool set up looks original

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Interesting DADS50 - is my switch absolutely aftermarket?

DADS50 - if you're not using the "factory" switch, what are you using?

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I'm not sure what is factory, or aftermarket.

I believe Brad has salesman data books and can confirm.

Ive been using this repo switch
...pic...


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yes tonka, your switch is definitely aftermarket, but probably pretty old - from pre-war the factory switches were the paddle type folks are showing - a rotary fan switch was factory starting about 55 - back of it, in 55-59 it uses a series style knob - the lighted knobs were aftermarket

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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Since heaters were dealer (instead of factory) installed many put universal rheostat switches in rather than the GM switch. I personally prefer a rheostat because it gives me an infinite number of fan speeds to choose from.

Last edited by Tiny; 06/22/2011 4:57 PM.

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Thanks for the info guys - its nice to know the history.

The fan never seemed to move much air, even at the highest setting. Now that its out I'm going to see if it was a function of the switch or the motor. (or both)

When these things were running on high, how would you compare the air speed to a modern fan in todays car? I imagine the 6V might would affect it right off - but I have no baseline to compare a good running motor too!

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Originally Posted by DADS50
1949 switches off a stovebolt members truck GHOSTRIDER.

Defrost and Heat


Steve

'49 3800
'52 3600
'57 3100

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Originally Posted by DADS50
looks like a heater switch similar to big tonkas on the left
cool set up looks original

Unity Lights


Steve

'49 3800
'52 3600
'57 3100

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The various under dash controls on my '38. All were added by me because when it was pulled out of the barn it had no heater, defroster, fog lights or back up light. From left to right: back-up light (on/off), fog light (on/off), defroster (off/low/high), heater (rheostat) and on the other side of the steering column is the high beam indicator light.

<CLICK>


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Some more pictures as promised:
Note the last picture which is a 1941-1947 Heater NOS they come with the discussed switch not rheostats. I have lots of NOS in box parts and Chevrolet sent the complete kits switches, brass ties, screws whatever until some one shows me different this is the standard dealer installed switch not rheostats. Accessory installation manuals also reference/show this switch not rheostats. A Chevrolet heater was a substantial option add on the price of a trucks (5-7% avg.) so it makes sense that they would be complete kits not parts of this and that, that is not the way the factory packaged kits are assembled. I have also added the original foot washer pump for comparison it is complete nothing else is needed to install.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2127786870102454676XXltam
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2566478420102454676jyQfxF
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2760625480102454676dJpMYk
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2479371530102454676ziCFxq
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2487031010102454676sDNRsY
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2396449290102454676hriwsV
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2988625630102454676EIUmsX

Last edited by Brad Allen; 06/23/2011 4:10 PM.
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How'd you come up with all these paddle switches Brad? You're a veritable gold mine of paddle switches. grin


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Some people collect stamps I collect NOS parts. Some I install like the Perry filter others I just leave on the shelf for display. I love that the stuff has survived all these years intact. The switches are pricey though I would say average on them is $65 and up.

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Pricey is right. I bought two on ebay a while back (used), the one I'm using for my defroster and one in my "stash". I'm thinking I paid in the neighborhood of $50 for the pair used.


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Where does the use of an Ark-les switch vs. Delco-Remy fit into the discussion?

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I stated above unless someone can show me proof that these were preferred over the dealer installed and kit included delco-remy style they are not originals to AD trucks. After 60 odd years who knows what replacements were sourced when the originals wore out. I base my contention on Master Parts Catalogs, original pictures, Accessory Installation Manuals, NOS purchases (with factory boxes/part numbers) which all show the Delco/Cole-Hersee switch in these applications.


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