The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop How do I keep my exhaust manifold like this?

The engine rebuilder did a great job cleaning the exhaust manifold. Now how do I keep it looking this nice? I haven't found a clear high temp sealer.
Picture

You have it ceramic coated like this.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1490069089080251109gFXbnk

From what I've seen none of the do it yourself manifold coating or painting type kits last, ceramic coating is the way to go.

Grigg

Ive never seen a beveled spacer in between the intake and exhaust manifold like that before.

That's a split exhaust off a corvette. My engine builder machined the spacer. The PO had just bent the studs to make them line up.

Eastwood makes a paint called manifold paint that they say is a one time paint job for the manifold. I have not used it yet. But plan to give it a try. Ceramic Coat is the way to go.

This

http://www.eastwood.com/stainless-steel-high-temp-coating-kit.html

or this

http://www.eastwood.com/calyx-manifold-coating.html

Worked at a restoration shop and several customers cars came in regularly for a through cleaning and detailing prior to show season, to include a manifold touch-up (we used the Eastwood stuff) It is OK but in a moist environment the manifold will still rust and you'll be redoing it every few years.

I think ceramic coated manifolds would have solved part of the problem. The one I pictured above still looks good after 5 years or so of being mostly inside but in the rain (no hood) at shows too.

Grigg

I need a wedge like that!!! What you have there is a 216 intake manifold with a '53-'54 Corvette exhaust manifold.

Although I personally have not used it Calyx Manifold Dressing has a reputation of being a good preserver of manifold finish.

http://calyxmanifold.com/

I'll go along with Grandpastruck on the Eastwood stainless steel paint. I have a 1940 F**d that I rebuilt back in the early 1980s. I cleaned and painted the cast iron manifolds and the exhaust pipes. I do not have a speck of rust on either. I do keep the car inside and do not drive in the rain, so your results may vary depending on your driving. I have a 55 task force I am working on now that needs an engine rebuild soon. I plan on cleaning up the tube headers that are on it now and painting with Eastwood. I have no doubts that the ceramic coating is much better, but for the money I'll stick with Eastwood.

Hugh

Give Claude a call at Part Stop in Bethalto, IL. He may still know the specs and be able to make you one.

I use Caylx on all my manifild. Its easy to install and has never come off or discolored. Installs with tooth bruch. I have done my two 65 GTOs and my 56 chevy 3200. Two I did in place and one I had the manifolds off. When off, I rubbed with news paper after application. I was told a old horse hair shoe brush works well also. If any piece does flack off , It is easy to just retouch. Comes in small plastic jar and you can add water(little) if it starts to dry-out. I got the welder on one of our pipeline crews to use it on his restored tractor and he was thrilled. Said he got a lot of comments as the exhaust manifolds are eye level and right there. Only draw back I had was when you touch it, you get some one your hand looks like silver antiseeze. Over ten years on the GTO and still looks good. Great Stuff.

Here is a link to some pictures of the 3200 almost done. There are some pictures of the manifold. It was rusty when I started just wire brushed and put on the Caylx. https://picasaweb.google.com/100461...Gv1sRgCLfLj6yvprrnSQ#5618878208127454258

You should try to heat the calyx-treated manifold ASAP after application. Put the manifold(s) on an engine and run it for a while. On one set of Fentons, I failed to do so and it has rusted.

Yep, Calyx is a good quick fix, and it does work and look good. The little jar goes a loooong way also. But I would agree with Grigg, there is no substitute for a ceramic coating. I’ve found that although a Calyx treated casting won’t rust from the moisture in the air like a bare casting will, it really doesn’t completely seal the surface and if you do get water splashed on the casting like from washing or rain, it will rust up thru the Calyx. And as mentioned it does rub off like antiseeze, my guess is that it is just graphite suspended in some high temp tolerant solution.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/114331484
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/114331526
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Tim and Denny, you are dead right. Here's my take on Calyx.

First it is good stuff but the key is what Tim said. Get it hot and keep it that way for a while. How do I know....
I blasted my manifolds and then hand rubbed the calyx into the manifold real good. I later fired the engine but did not run it very much. Headers got hot but I doubt the calyx got "seasoned".

Well,I had the panel outside,with the hood up, when a sneaky afternoon shower came down..sun still shining! Got the panel back inside and, yes, the manifolds have rust spots on them.

Well, I know it'll touch up nice, but a stovebolter from Italy came by the house one day and I gave him the little Calyx cup. Now I need to buy me another $18 cup to touch up my manifolds.
Oh, buffed and heated up the black stuff won't get on you, at least not as bad.
Yep, powder coating is the way to go but I think if I get mine touched up and drive it some it'll take on its natural patina

This is my story and I'm sticking to it!!

I would sent it to jet-hot,they do a great job and lasts forever.I had my intake and fenton headers done by them.
jet-hot

Tim

It takes more than just bent studs to get a 216 intake to bolt up to a 235 exhaust. The "wedge" is there because the two surfaces don't fit together. That's because the studs won't bend closer together where they are threaded into the exhaust. So it keeps the two apart.

Also, if I remember correctly, the PO also drilled a new hole on the other side/bolt side, of the intake.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=714457&page=2


Hey Cosmo,
Wouldn't it be easier and look better too, if a 235 intake was used with the 235 exhaust. If you want the 216 carb then just drill new/closer carb mounting studs on the 235 intake. Or some have made the wider holes on their 216 carb so it fit the 235 intake.

Tom, Fallen Hero's Dad has a 216 engine with his Corvette exhaust manifold therefor he needs the wedge. I have a 235 engine and later this year a 261. The intake I had altered, unbeknownst to me is a 216 intake modified for two Carter Webers.
A lot of time and a little bit of money went into that.

In order to make it work on the Corvette exhaust manifold that I have I will need a wedge.

Oops, just read this old post of yours, we're talking the same language.