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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,114 Posts1,056,282 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 35 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 35 | Hey guys- picked up a 55 second series 3100 a couple weeks ago to haul my two wheel projects around and I've been taking in all of the great stuff in this forum! So many decisions. The body has very little rust but dings all over and a crap paint job. The motor sounds like a sewing machine but clutch needs attention. In such a short time I've considered everything from restoration to camaro clipping with a late model sbc... Much of it still in the air, but I've decided to stick with the 235 for now. Its got an HEI, double barrel carb and I want to add some goodies to her as is at least until the body gets some work. I have so many questions and so many issues I want to tackle. First, she Grinds when warm. Probably some of it is me, but although the PO claimed new clutch, there is about 3" of free-play the pedal and it's at the end of adjustment. The shroud has definitely been off recently and bolts are new, but it feels like it should allow me more clutch. The manual states 1.5" She also waltzes the road with true grace and beauty. And as much as I love dancing a pretty girl across the dance floor, I'm afraid considering my past history I'll be pulled over for a DWI with or without alcohol involved. I'm reading up on this issue now. and last (Silly question) is there anything I should know at my first oil change? The manual has nothing on the actual process but without a filter I was just going to drain the pan and fill it with some 10/30. Actually it doesnt even show qty... Any ideas on the clutch? Suggestions or comments welcome and TIA. I look forward to being here a while. [IMG] http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/filsa65tchop/truck1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG] http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/filsa65tchop/truck2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG] http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/filsa65tchop/truck3.jpg[/IMG] | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 | Looks like a great project! As far as road manners, first thing to do is get it up on a rack and check those king pins, tie rod ends, etc. for excessive wear. Also, those old steering boxes have a lot of adjustment for excessive wear, should that be needed. I think I saw a link to repair manuals here on this site to get you started. If I recall, without a filter it holds 5 quarts. As for clutch issues, I'll let somebody else jump in. Good luck, keep the pics coming, and welcome to the BOLT!
1940 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup "KC" A day without sunshine is like, well, ..... dark! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | fils55, welcome to the Stovebolt. You are definitley at the right place. That is a mighty solid looking truck compared to what a lot of us start with  I think you will do well with it. as mentioned above there is and online manual that's been done and I think still in progress by a bolter Keith Hardy. Here is a link to it but it's be wise to get your paper back and I think there is an asembly manual that you can also get from some vendors that are listed in the links here on the bolt. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/I'd check the normal stuff on the clutch. Double check the linkage, take the inspection cover off and "look" at the clutch to see if it is really new. Maybe the previous owner only put in a new pressure plate or just the clutch. Check the linkage and the fork that goes through the bellhousing...I'm sure your getting the picture by now. Good luck, keep us posted. We're here to help...... be sure to get that front end checked out as mentioned by 40casey. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 35 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 35 | Thanks for the welcome guys. I'm loving the link! I do have the paperback workshop manual. My fiance asks how I can sit and read manuals like books... I have more than a few. That said, it's a new project and I have a lot to learn. Today I will crawl underneath her and start checking things out. Keep the good stuff coming! | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 | Nice one! Certainly in better shape than what I started with. There are a million little things that can be repaired and improved upon that don't cost much and improve performance/safety. EG: Take apart the whole clutch pedal mechanism. You'll find that by cleaning up the parts, replacing/repairing worn components, greasing it all up and reassembling you eliminate alot of lash in the moving parts. Stuff like that. And think safety first. Brakes, then everything else. Enjoy!
Last edited by orchidskip; 06/05/2011 6:35 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | and last (Silly question) is there anything I should know at my first oil change? The manual has nothing on the actual process but without a filter I was just going to drain the pan and fill it with some 10/30. Actually it doesnt even show qty... Use 30 wt SAE non-detergent oil. This will be the proper oil for your engine without an oil filter. Use 30 SAE detergent oil if you do have an oil filter. | | |
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