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#748700 05/21/2011 12:03 PM
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L
'Bolter
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Is the rear door seal the same shape as the front door seal.What i have been sent is not it's the shape of an arrow head.

Last edited by laybacklenny; 05/21/2011 12:19 PM.

layback
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S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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probably depends on the year wink
Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Sorry about that 1954 chevrolet panel truck


layback
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
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No, the shapes are different.

Steele Rubber has the correct profile rubber for panel rear doors (years ago, the rear-door rubber that I got from Jim Carter was the wrong profile).

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B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Tim,do you know what steele rubbers part number is ? I looked on there site and see nothing for the rear barn doors.


1951 3100 Chevrolet
1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall
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What happens if you put the same rubber on the back as the front? I'm quite sure mine is all the same, just put it on a few months ago and seems to be fine.

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D
'Bolter
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When i put my 54 panel back together, i used the same profile weatherstrip all around. 2 front doors, and both rear barn doors.
Fits and works like it should.
I matched my old stuff up at the body shop supply store,made by "AUVECO".
Used the same thing on the doors of my 54 pickup.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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B
'Bolter
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Thanks for the information Tim,really appreciate it.So it's sold by the foot and not a kit,$4 per foot.I guess I need to do some measuring.

Thanks,Tim


1951 3100 Chevrolet
1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall
Image
"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams."
"Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything"
"If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Here is a photo from Lenny of the two different panel-body door seals.

Those are the two styles that I also used on my doors.

The problem I had with the Jim Carter rear-door seal was that the "arrowhead" was not 90 degrees, it was about 75 degrees - enough of a difference that a clean/complete attachment to both of the edges on the door was not possible.

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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
.... can I jump in here? Tim, thanks for the pics. Just like mine. I just want to add that once you install them be careful when you close the doors. The rubber hasn't "set" to the body yet and will sort of "fold over" or crease if not careful.
Once I got mine installed I got inside the panel and using a thin piece of plastic (sort of like a flat screwdriver) and ran it around the inside of the doors and got the rubber laying "flat" all the way around to seal like its suppose to. I left it that way for about a week. Now when I open and close the door the rubber goes and fits like its suppose to........
at least thats the way it was for me.


1937 Chevy Pickup
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1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Alvin,

Thanks.

Do you have an opening (non-sealed area) at the top, between the two doors? If yours is well-sealed, would you please post a few photos?

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L
'Bolter
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Thanks Tim, just want to get all the info i could out there .The rear in the photo is good for 90 degrees but up against the door it just don't look right. Will take one more look at it with a body man and then decide.
I'm thinking i will try and send it back and go with the front door style.

Last edited by laybacklenny; 05/26/2011 12:28 AM.

layback
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Posts: 14,522
Tim, crazy me did not take any pics when I put mine in a few weeks ago but I can still take some shots. It was trial and error as I went and I'm still convinced I should not have cut the weather strip as it went around the strike plate ect. To me it just looks crummy and I may pull it off and change it.
I've got to drive down to Georgia early in the morning to see my sister who had an aortic valve replaced and is having a hard time. I'll shoot a few pics when I get back.

I'm curious how the front weather stripping worked on the rear.

OH...I do have an unsealed area at the top between the doors. I still have some adjusting to do to pull the doors tighter and maybe in a week or so I can take it down the road. I'm thinking it will "whistle"???

Last edited by Achipmunk; 05/26/2011 1:06 AM.

1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
before I scored a set of NOS TF barn doors with the rubber still in place, the usual seal sold and used for the TF rear doors was just the side door seals by-the-foot, very similar to what Tim linked, and sealing the top of the center was a problem as he mentions - I sent the seals to Steele to be copied and now we lucky TF folks have the real deal

I know nothing about how the AD barn door rubber should be, but I suggest someone find a truck with original rubber seals still in place and see if maybe it's like the TF setup with one door the seal surrounds, and the other door with a seal on 3 sides only and specially molded ends that take care of the space between the doors at the top - also molded in metal pieces for mount screws .... as seen here, top 2 corners are the pass side, bottoms are the ends for the drvr side



Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

I bought my truck in 1971 and the seals were original. Lenny's rear door seal matches the profile of the seal on my rear doors (and on two other pair of rear doors that I stored away over the years).

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Tim - are the seals on all 4 edges of both doors? no special treatment where the doors meet?

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 219
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
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I'm sure Tim that you Moderators have enough to do already but i'm thinking a Form for Rubber/Weatherstripping/Seals.
What do you think.


layback
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Bill,

The left (driver's side) rear door is the "inner" door. On that door, the one piece of seal covers all sides except the vertical side/edge between the two doors. On the right door, the seal is one continuous piece that joins together in the middle of the bottom side of that door. The vertical inner-edge of the right door's seal creates a seal against the vertical edge of the left door.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Tim - that's the way the TF seals are as well, but the space between the doors at the top and bottom is taken care of by fatter shaped ends on the 3 sided [inner] seal and shaped corners on the 4 sided seal, as seen in the pic I linked above - it would be suprising if the ADs hadn't had some similar provision as that area would naturally be wider than the rest of the gaps around the doors

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Tim, sorry to be so late but things just got in the way.

This is on my 52 AD panel and not sure it will help anyone so its for the "for what its worth dept."

I think it looks good on the right rear door but the left door with the striker plate and "catch" mechanism it just don't look good to me. I'm not even sure this is the right way it was originally put on but until I know better its what I ended up with. I just plain don't like the way it looks or the way I had to cut it at the striker. The weathershipping itself seemed to be good stuff. You just have to be careful as I mentioned above when you close it the first time and make sure the "lip" is like its suppose to be on the inside. I took a plastic "spoon" and ran it around the inside so the weatherstripping could get a good "memory" the way its suppose to lay.
So, for what its worth here is a few pics....

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/000_0280.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/000_0281.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/000_0282.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/000_0283.jpg


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile

Moderated by  MNSmith, Rusty Rod 

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