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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 97
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 97
Removing the master cylinder on a 56 3200.

Completed the brake job to here and got the lines removed but am unable to free the large pin that goes thru the yoke fitting. It has a zerk fitting that I was able to get grease thru. It swings easily but the pin turns also. I have removed the holding bracket and have tried to pound it out. Been three days now of working it a little and spraying with penitrent. Any ideas on removing this pin.

Tom Duffy

Last edited by Woogeroo; 04/30/2011 8:28 AM. Reason: added year/model to topic... it helps
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 8
C
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 8
Ugh. I spent those same three days on my 54 getting that same pin out last week. I sprayed PB blaster and WD40 like there was no tomorrow.

Here's what I did: After I got the cotter pin out I put a finishing nail in the hole and tried to twist the pin after spraying it. To pound it I had to use a screw in a vice-grip between the hammer and the pin so that I would not flare out the end of the pin. It finally came out and I was sore! Once the pin moved enough to get the cotter pin hole into the fork I think that helped the WD40 or PB blaster to do more good.

Hang in there! Any more suggestions here?

Jen

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 97
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 97
Decide to remove the brake pedel from the arms that is attached to the pin. This way I could take it to the bench to work on the pin. Simple enough - wrong. Nut came of ok but the shaft is tappered and has splines at the top. I got help and heated the fitting while a friend tapped from above with a long driver. Came off. After cleaning and removing the pin, I fitted everything together on the bench. I noticed that arm had too much play - sleave bearing needed replacing. So it's at the machine shop for replacing. While off I painted and install new beak peddle rubber. So I statered to replace the wheel cylinders and ended up all the way to the peddle rubber - Can't go any farther??

Joined: Feb 2011
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,363
Usually you can just back off the brake pedal shaft to arm nut and tap with a soft hammer to break free the taper spline.


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
Nah, every thing has to go the hard way for me too dang

Joined: Jun 2008
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U
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 714
What is the difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid...and can you mix the 2 in your master cylinder and lines?

Thanks!

Jon


1957 Chevy 1/2-Ton Truck
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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The coldest winter I ever saw was a summer I spent in San Francisco M. Twain
If at first you don't succeed...skydiving is not for you!
If you don't like my carbon foot print, stick it up your Prius!!
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
Jon - 3 and 4 are compatible formulas, 4 has a higher temperature tolerance - avoid dot 5, silicone

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 714
OK very good...Thank you Bill!!


1957 Chevy 1/2-Ton Truck
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

The coldest winter I ever saw was a summer I spent in San Francisco M. Twain
If at first you don't succeed...skydiving is not for you!
If you don't like my carbon foot print, stick it up your Prius!!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 97
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 97
Just a note took 3 days to get the correct brake arm sleave bearing. Installed it today and connected the brake lines. Will fill and bleed the lines tomorrow. Took the clutch adjusting arms off while there and welded the wear groovs full and replaced them also. Thanks for the info and hope it helps someone else on their first truck restore. Trying to get the linkage arms back on but that a differant post. Thanks again. I would not be this close without all the advice I have gotten here. Tom


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