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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,093 Posts1,056,474 Members48,444 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 | Removing the master cylinder on a 56 3200.
Completed the brake job to here and got the lines removed but am unable to free the large pin that goes thru the yoke fitting. It has a zerk fitting that I was able to get grease thru. It swings easily but the pin turns also. I have removed the holding bracket and have tried to pound it out. Been three days now of working it a little and spraying with penitrent. Any ideas on removing this pin.
Tom Duffy
Last edited by Woogeroo; 04/30/2011 8:28 AM. Reason: added year/model to topic... it helps
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 8 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 8 | Ugh. I spent those same three days on my 54 getting that same pin out last week. I sprayed PB blaster and WD40 like there was no tomorrow.
Here's what I did: After I got the cotter pin out I put a finishing nail in the hole and tried to twist the pin after spraying it. To pound it I had to use a screw in a vice-grip between the hammer and the pin so that I would not flare out the end of the pin. It finally came out and I was sore! Once the pin moved enough to get the cotter pin hole into the fork I think that helped the WD40 or PB blaster to do more good.
Hang in there! Any more suggestions here?
Jen | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 | Decide to remove the brake pedel from the arms that is attached to the pin. This way I could take it to the bench to work on the pin. Simple enough - wrong. Nut came of ok but the shaft is tappered and has splines at the top. I got help and heated the fitting while a friend tapped from above with a long driver. Came off. After cleaning and removing the pin, I fitted everything together on the bench. I noticed that arm had too much play - sleave bearing needed replacing. So it's at the machine shop for replacing. While off I painted and install new beak peddle rubber. So I statered to replace the wheel cylinders and ended up all the way to the peddle rubber - Can't go any farther?? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,363 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,363 | Usually you can just back off the brake pedal shaft to arm nut and tap with a soft hammer to break free the taper spline.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | Nah, every thing has to go the hard way for me too  | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 714 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 714 | What is the difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid...and can you mix the 2 in your master cylinder and lines?
Thanks!
Jon 1957 Chevy 1/2-Ton TruckIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pixThe coldest winter I ever saw was a summer I spent in San Francisco M. Twain If at first you don't succeed...skydiving is not for you! If you don't like my carbon foot print, stick it up your Prius!! | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | Jon - 3 and 4 are compatible formulas, 4 has a higher temperature tolerance - avoid dot 5, silicone
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 714 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 714 | OK very good...Thank you Bill!!
1957 Chevy 1/2-Ton TruckIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pixThe coldest winter I ever saw was a summer I spent in San Francisco M. Twain If at first you don't succeed...skydiving is not for you! If you don't like my carbon foot print, stick it up your Prius!! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 97 | Just a note took 3 days to get the correct brake arm sleave bearing. Installed it today and connected the brake lines. Will fill and bleed the lines tomorrow. Took the clutch adjusting arms off while there and welded the wear groovs full and replaced them also. Thanks for the info and hope it helps someone else on their first truck restore. Trying to get the linkage arms back on but that a differant post. Thanks again. I would not be this close without all the advice I have gotten here. Tom | | |
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