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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,097 Posts1,056,163 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | My cab floor has surface rust and also some thin spots with small gaps at the corner seams of the kick panels and toe boards. I want to coat the floor temporarily and drive it until I can do more serious work on it later. The kick panels have rust through and will also need replaced. If I encapsulate the floor now is it possible to clean the area to weld later?
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Better to fix it first, then encapsulate, why do the job twice?
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,362 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,362 | A quick powered wire brush treatment, then use zero rust paint.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | I do realize it's better to get it fixed first but I would like to drive it this summer and make it a winter time project. I'm still waiting to get a MIG welder and will need to practice up before tackling the repair. Perhaps just some zero rust paint as Truckolet mentioned would tide it over.
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | anything you put on it without all the preparatory steps will just add to the work you have to do later .... maybe you could just leave it alone until you're ready to do the whole job - it's taken 60 years to get like it is, another 6 months isn't going to kill it  Bill | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 | Agree with squeeze. trapped rust seems to grow better than rust that is left alone. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | Great advice...thanks for the input guys.
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | I made a couple kick panel covers from carpet runner to hide the rot and it looked respectable for the couple summers I drove it that way.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,362 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,362 | If you wire brush it real good and of course clean it before painiting zero rust it will be fine, and stop the rusting process. If you want it better later you get a blaster at harbor freight, and walnut shells, and clean off the zero rust. Or if you want a slightly better job of it now, do the good clean and paint removal, and zero rust it. When the time comes just fix what you need to and shouldn't need to clean off the zero rust, just scratch it with sandpaper or scratch pad and clean and paint what ever over it. Its every bit as good as por and less hassel.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 | I agree, what squeeze said!!!!!!!! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | Sounds pretty good to me...no use making more work than necessary.
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 | What about using rust converter before encapsulating?
Dennis -there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 207 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 207 |
Tom 1965 Chevy C10, 230 straight six, 2WD, 4-speed manual
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | Dennis, that's what I was thinking about...something to inhibit the rust until more permanent work can be done. Since the truck will always be garaged then I think it's good advice to just leave it until I can replace the bad spots.
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 | This is what I have done with no problems.
You can try to grind all the rust and thin the metal. You can chemically or blast all the rust - if you left any behind then you have wasted your time.
I convert it the best I can, then encapsulate it.
It will be fine until you are done with the truck.
I use my truck as a truck - hauling things. I also paid $400 for my truck.
Now if you are looking for a show truck then I am wrong. Sorry
It is your decision.
Dennis -there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
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