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#735271 04/01/2011 4:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 306
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 306
do the stovebolters use gasket goop on engine gaskets? or are we content to let the gasket seal?
i've heard it both ways.
now that i'm assembling my 235 i'm curious as to the thinking of the members of this site

thanks
rolf


1963 c10
rgie #735281 04/01/2011 5:30 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 1,971
Yes, but very little. My stance is (for most instances) is that if the surfaces are cleaned and straight, a gasket should seal properly without additional "goop".
Although, there are places that will benefit from some use of "goop". The trick is to know how to use goop sparingly, and have clean and straight surfaces to start with.
Remember that the "goop" that squeezes out is generally the same amount that squeezes into your engine too.
There are also many different types of "goop" and many have different applications.

Builder #735296 04/01/2011 6:22 PM
Joined: May 2005
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G
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G Offline
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All good points.

To add to that, I really like Permatex #2 used lightly and smeared evenly on most gaskets.
for your oil pan gasket I use a small amount of black silicone at the corners where the cork and rubber meet. Don't use silicone on anything else unless it used it when brand new...

For the valve cover gasket I use gasket adhesive to attach it to the cover, and use nothing between it and the head. Then it's easy to remove to adjust valves and reusable for a long time to come.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Grigg #735329 04/01/2011 8:41 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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I use three sealers, and as above, they're used sparingly. For attaching valve cover gaskets, use contact cement, like 3M weatherstrip adhesive ("Gorilla Snot" as the NASCAR guys call it). Put a THIN layer on the gasket and on the valve cover, let it dry to the touch, and press them together. Get it right the first time- - - -it bonds instantly. Leave the cylinder head side as is- - -no glue or sealer of any kind.

Next- - -thin paper gaskets like thermostat housings, water pumps, etc. Use a very thin layer of Permatex Super 300, the brush-on liquid developed in WW II for aviation gasoline sealant. NOT Permatex 3D or 3H- - -it's a different compound. Super 300 is almost black, and never hardens fully.

Last- - -RTV silicone sealer, whatever color trips your trigger. This is actually a "gasket eliminator", made to fill the gap between parts without using a gasket. It's best used at the corners of oil pans and V-8 intake manifolds to prevent leaks where side and end gaskets meet. A little dab is all that's needed! Big squeezed-out gobs of RTV scream "Shade Tree Mechanic!" to everyone who knows better.

One little precaution- - - -NEVER use any kind of sealer on a gasket that's exposed to intake manifold vacuum! Water ports at the end of a manifold, OK, but not the fuel mixture passages!

Jerry



"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: May 2005
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
...A little dab is all that's needed! Big squeezed-out gobs of RTV scream "Shade Tree Mechanic!" to everyone who knows better.

Jerry
Well said!
When buying used parts that's a big turnoff to me, and what I'm willing to pay drops instantly at the sight of RTV.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Grigg #735509 04/02/2011 6:11 AM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 65
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 65
Im a big fan of the permatex copper spray. I used it to install a new fuel pump on my 51. Spray both sides of gasket, spray block surface, spray pump surface, and let tack up for about a minute. Then spray gasket on both sides again and install immediately.

I find its hard to get an even coat of something you squeeze out of a tube. This was my first time using the spray, and I will now only use RTV for diffs!



1951 1/2 Ton 216ci 4spd
1955 3/4 Ton NAPCO 235ci 4spd
1959 1/2 Ton stepside 235ci 4spd

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