| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (Gray_Ghost, Rusty Heaps, Brian Moore, 55shaker, Otto Skorzeny, Hotrod Lincoln, 1 invisible),
85
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,028 Posts1,055,414 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | |
#73213 02/14/2007 3:39 AM | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 99 | After 4+ years I am finally getting back to this project and ready to install new brake lines.
First: Should I use any type of sealant on the threaded fittings? If yes, what type?
Second: Can I speed up bleeding of air by attaching a line to the bleeder valve and then with an Eagle pump oil can filled with new brake fluid pump fluid through new line, cylinder and out valuve to pre-fill lines from master cylinder? My thinking is that this will speed bleeding process.
Third: Would a coat of spray lacquer or paint be helpful on the lines?
Fourth: Any tips or tricks anyone can give would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Bob | | |
#73214 02/14/2007 4:24 AM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | I'll give you my opinions, good or bad, LOL.
1st, no sealant is required on the threads since it doesn't seal through the threads. The flare of the line mates up to a flange inside the fitting. When tightened together, that's where the seal is made.
2nd, To speed up the bleeding process, bench bleed the master, then gravity bleed the rest of the system. This will get you to the starting point of bleeding brakes. It let's you know that fluid has reached each wheel. Prefilling won't do much good since it will be all bled back out in the bleeding process.
3rd, you could paint your lines but do it after all the brake work is done. Brake fluid is an excellent paint stripper.
4th, get yourself a one man bleeder kit from a parts place. They work and keep the mess to a minimum. Also be sure everything is properly adjusted so you don't get fooled into thinking you still have air when actually it's poor adjustment, Good luck, Scott | | |
#73215 02/14/2007 2:56 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Bigtrucks pretty well covered it but I don,t think I can gravity bleed with the master cyl. under the floor. Be shure & put a kit in or replace the master cyl. I would invest in some speedy bleeders if I did a complete job like that. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#73216 02/14/2007 4:03 PM | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 99 | Scott: Thank you for reply. Understand your reply to items 1, e, 4. Please expaint "bench bleeding". Do you cap line holes in master cylinder or install lines and cap lines? The master cylinder on my 58 is mounted on the left frame member under the cab. Installation is from under the truck. Fill port is on top and acessed through hole in floorboard.
Bob | | |
#73217 02/14/2007 4:39 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 92 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 92 | You can bench bleed on the truck. Just pump the fluid through the master without any lines hooked up. What you're trying to prevent is an air bubble air locking the fluid in the master preventing it from building pressure. Once you get decent fluid flow you then can hook up the lines, Scott | | |
| |
| |