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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,181
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
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Posts: 1,181
OK, I'm at the point where I need to mount the new E-Z Wiring Harness Fuse block. I know it will go on the front firewall in the upper left section. Since I've never wired a vehicle before I'l need pleant of pointers.

The kit I have is the E-Z Wiring 21 circuit and Dolphin Gauges.

http://ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html


18 FUSES 21 CIRCUIT
Radio, Coil, Dome Light, Backup/Cruise, Horn, Cigarette Lighter, Fuel Pump, AC/Heat, Radio, Turn Signal, Horn, ACC, Wiper, Gauges, Hazard, Fan, Power Window, Power Door Locks, Brake, Headlights.

I know I will have a few extra wires that will not be used like power door locks, fuel pump, etc. and expect to have to bundle these and tuck them under the dash. Any ideas along those line would be good to know.

What scares me is that I'd like to learn some proper tech about termination connections and the such. I' have Jolly's information on running relays (which I will do for brighter headlights) and the proper way to use connectors and I've read Alan Horvath's tips (he's got to do it all over again becasue painter really messed him up) . BUT there is nothing quite like trying all this new stuff for yourself.

Anybody who has done this please chime in. I'm the type of person who will read something several times before trying just to make sure I have it right (less screwups that way.)

Thanks
Jake Groby


1960 GMC 305A V-6 Gallery Page
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Shop Shark
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I've done it with a LOT of help from my friends/ All I can say is lots of luck. I found it a real job.

Joined: Sep 2006
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It can be tough or not. I like to run one wire at a time just to get an idea where it goes and how I'll locate it for neatness and convenience. I don't cut a wire until I'm sure about what I want to do. I label wires even though most kits these days have some sort of system marking them. I never install any gauges until I know that they work. Best of luck.


Drew
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'Bolter
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E-Z wire has the marking lables every 6 inches. I think I'm going to need a bit of help woith this one. I understand the basics but having never done it before, it a bit scary.

I ain't cuttin' nuttin' until I'm sure twice!


1960 GMC 305A V-6 Gallery Page
Remember, the government cannot give --anything to anyone --that they have not first taken away from someone else.
BUY AMERICAN http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/index.html
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Wrench Fetcher
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The best way to terminate connections is non-insulated connectors, crimp, solder and heat shrink tubing. Those will last forever.

Just my 2 cents worth

This is a good source of info on wiring relays for stuff too.

http://www.the12volt.com/

Last edited by Budman1758; 03/20/2011 6:17 PM.

The glass is twice as big as it needs to be.
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New Guy
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I used the ron francis wiring harness myself , but the main thing is go 1 wire at a time and make sure you have good grounds everywhere.If you have any problems it is usually a ground wire.It took me about 20 hrs. to wire my truck complely.Good luck!!!!!!!!!!

Joined: Mar 2001
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M
'Bolter
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Thanks,

I have to commit on where to mount the fuse block on the firewall. Then I will start group routing.


1960 GMC 305A V-6 Gallery Page
Remember, the government cannot give --anything to anyone --that they have not first taken away from someone else.
BUY AMERICAN http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/index.html
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Shop Shark
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I also used a Ron Francis kit about 20 years ago and have been very happy with it, because I have made numerous changes to the layout over the years and these are easy with a front connecting fuse panel. The one regret however was mounting the fuse panel in the stock location. If I were to do it again I would mount it in the glove box opening, either right in the opening, or behind the glove box with a removable panel for access.

Being 20 years older with a bad back and knees, twisting, bending and reaching to access anything on the fuse panel in its present location is an exercise in pain and misery. It would be much more comfortable to work on while sitting on the passenger seat.

On the topic of wire terminations, I’ve read you should always use crimp connectors and never solder an automotive joint because it turns it into a solid wire which is subject to vibration cracking. Also if you don’t have excellent soldering skills and equipment, it can solidify the wire well beyond the joint as well and risks melting the insulation.

In my experience a ratcheting crimp connector is worth its weight in gold if you are doing an entire vehicle. Mine looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-701030-..._5?ie=UTF8&qid=1301335082&sr=8-5


1960 GMC 1/2-Ton Pickup Truck
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M
'Bolter
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Thanks Mark,

Maybe you can do a pic/tutorial on how to use this? I don't mind buying good tools, but want to get to use them correctly. "For all things, there is a first time" Mr. Spock 2285 wink

Thanks
Jake


1960 GMC 305A V-6 Gallery Page
Remember, the government cannot give --anything to anyone --that they have not first taken away from someone else.
BUY AMERICAN http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/index.html

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