The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine lifting points

I have a '52 3600 and I'm getting ready to install the engine. The truck had no engine when I got it so I have no reference point as to what the proper lifting points would be. I'd like to drop the engine in completely assembled (manifolds, starter, etc.),but I'm not sure where to lift from. All suggestions would be appreciated.Thanks in advance.
Terry

I remember pulling the manifolds for fear of breaking them. One rear manifold bolt and one water pump bolt on the right side of the engine. Every time I pull an engine I wish I had one of those adjustable engine chains. You know the ones with the hand crank to adjust the angle of the engine.

Removing the rocker assembly and running a bolt as far as it will go in the front and back hole has worked for me. I have some 5/16" clevis hooks welded to a piece of flat with a 3/8" hole. I find the center and hook it there. I prefer a chain hoist over a hydraulic hoist because it is more controllable when I am by myself. Manifolds are stronger than you think. In fact the factory service manual recommends lifting Y-Block engines as well as their inline 6 with hooks around the exhaust manifolds.

If its a 235 I wouldn't use the exhaust manifold for lifting. The break to easily.
Larryw

The correct way to lift the engine is in the shop manual. If you don't have the manual, you can use the online version at "Old Chevy Manuals Online".

Typically the head bolts are the way to go. Keeps the chains high and out of the way.

I use a couple of large eye bolts with a load leveler and I like to use the next inner most cylinder head bolt holes rather than the corner ones. I have a fear that I could snap or crack the corner out under load. It may be a false assumption, but that's the way I lift the engine.

Here's about how one balances, and a quick and easy way to remove/reinstall one if you have the front of the truck removed.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2611387400080251109jxxEJE
I prefer to use actual lifting slings and comealongs or a chain fall. however this time I didn't have a sling handy but did have the forklift and a strap, it worked out fine, only about 20lb on the front one.

Grigg

Lots of interesting opinions here.

I have personally seen a professional engine rebuilding shop in my neighborhood lift complete (with accessories) big block V8 engines with "carburetor plates" fastned to aluminum manifolds with 5/16" bolts on a regular basis. They tell me they've never had a problem with that.

I'd never try that. There are to many available 3/8" and bigger threaded holes in the heads and blocks to trust a 5/16' hole threaded in aluminum.