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#727703 03/07/2011 9:51 PM
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che
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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hi guys, my heater puts out heat even though it's not turned on. that's not so bad now that it's cool outside but it won't be any fun during the summer. it's not that the blower is running but that the heater hoses and the carcass of the heater are hot and the heat flows into the cab. could i correct that problem by putting a manual valve on one of the hoses inside the engine compartment. during the summer i could close the valve and wouldn't that prevent the hot water from entering the heater box and heat from entering the cab. does anyone foresee a problem doing this? thank you. PS, i'm working on a 1950 1/2 ton. heater appears to be original; not sure what kind it is.


Che
1950 Chevy 3100
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'Bolter
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I actually think you are better off doing this as the heater core in these trucks is usally a weak link. I will rarely use my heater since my truck is a fair weather only. They sell several types (originals too $$$)I put two valves on mine since I handmade my own by tig welding a SS valve to SS nipples. My recirculating type puts out lots of heat without the fan on as well.

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Extreme Gabster
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There should be a valve to stop the flow. There are several types available. Put it in the hose from the thermostat housing.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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Ex Hall Monitor
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Agreed, put it there and it takes the pressure off of the heater core.


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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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there's one available at NAPA [actually Ford I think eek ] that I put in a buddies truck, cable controlled so you can operate it from inside

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
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'Bolter
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I agree as well, I put one in my '51 GMC for that very reason.


Allan
-----
1951 GMC 1/2-ton
Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window
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'Bolter
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61 to 72 Ford trucks and alot of 60s and 70s Mopars used a valve like that.

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Shop Shark
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I noticed that everyone thinks the valve is a good idea and I agree. But, your problem may be something many guys miss. There is a feed side of the heater and a return side. If you reverse the hoses from the water pump and return, then hot water will migrate up the hose into the heater and heat the whole thing up. These valves can bypass a little water even when turned off The aftermarket in-line valve and the OEM valve need to be hooked to the right hose. Take a look and see if you don't have these reversed.

Last edited by beltfed; 03/13/2011 3:31 PM.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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the correct hookup is the hose from the water pump to the side of the core that has the valve [if original], or if you're putting the aftermarket under-the-hood style valve in, add to that input side, stopping the push of hot water into the core

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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'Bolter
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I have this type on my pickup. water valve

I'm surprised this thread hasn't been moved.

Tim


1951 3100 Chevrolet
1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall
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i found a near identical one at napa today for only $14, a lot cheaper than the one listed at carters--in case anyone else is in the market for one. thanks for all the advice.


Che
1950 Chevy 3100
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'Bolter
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That's great,hope you get problem under control.

Good luck,Tim


1951 3100 Chevrolet
1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall
Image
"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams."
"Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything"
"If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"

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