The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Sound deadening mat or spray.

I was watching Trucks on TV today and they had a lizard skin spray sound deadening material. Anyone know how that stacks up to the adhesive mat like that Eastwood sells? Seems like the waterproofing aspect of the material would be a benefit. You can sand and paint it too if you want.

http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/sound_control.php

I myself cannot afford that kind of stuff! Thats why I use regular spray on undercoating outside,and pad insulation w/ rubber floormat inside.
Good luck,

Mike

Super55,
What part of the truck are you considering treating? Different materials for interior vs under carriage, etc. I use Second Skin Audio products in my vintage rigs. Might consider this winter doing it finally to my truck.

Thanks for posting. Good link..

I have used http://www.dynamat.com/ and the spray on types for a sound and heat reducer on the bottom outside of the body.The dynamat is easier to install anytime or before interior is installed.Spray types require more prep work to adhere properly.

I was thinking that I would sound proof the inside of the cab. I sort of like the idea of the spray working as a moisture shield. I live in the lower mainland of BC and it's a rain forest climate. Hard to keep things dry here. I thought a mat could hold moisture underneath. Apparently you can spray it under places like your fenders. They said it can be sanded and painted.

the rubberized undercoat [or 'rocker gaurd'] applied with a shutz gun like most body shops use works well and is cheaper than lizard skin - also available in rattle cans for touch up

Bill

Here's something that I did to my doors that made a *huge* difference in quieting the doors when you close them! :
http://AlanHorvath.com/54chevy/doors_quiet.php

I second the roof seal. Its the same as dynamat and at a fraction of the price. Works really well on all floor boards before carpet.

Alan's dead on with the roofing material. I put it on the floors before carpet padding. It's worked out quite well. And the strips on the doors helped lots.

Yeah, One of my friends locally said he went to Lowe's across the border (don't have them in BC) and bought that roofing material. Said it was really cheap and easy to apply.

Paul - you can find the same or quite similar at most building supply places, or Home Depot ... another thing from construction that works well is BlueSkin, used around building doors and windows, I'm using it on my bus project

Bill

Bill,
I haven't looked at Home Depot around Vancouver, but I will. If I don't find it, I am only 45 mins. from Bellingham, and I have to go pick up some tires that are being mounted on my rims.
Cheers,
Paul
(Is it snowing on the island yet?)

yeah, 18 feet accumulated .... up on Mt Washington, nada in the real world

Bill

I to used the same stuff that Alan used and then rolled it on with a wall paper seam roller.
Small wooden roller that worked great in small confined area like the inside of the doors.
Good Luck,

Mike

Something to think about:

Dynamat Issue

I thought that I would bring this up ,since the use of dynamat seems to be so popular.
I recently had to deal with a moisture problem that seemed to be made worse by Dynamat.
Dynamat traps moisture between the metal and the mat. If you have any leakage in your panels water will get in and stay trapped ,especially in all the voids between the mat and metal. Even normal condensation.
The mat does not breathe and will not allow the moisture to dry.
That is the main reason that I am not in favor of a foil type insulation that will not breathe.
This is not the first time that I have had to deal with this problem on customer cars (I won't use the stuff).
I had a customer that had a very small leak in his heater core and it had leaked for some time. I don't know how the anti-freeze got in because he had that stuff stuck all over but it did and what a mess it made out of his floor and toe board.

how does moisture get stuck in there if it is rolled on properly...when it is, isn't it air tight?..therefore moisture proof?

What a good idea,I've roofed 26 years and used a simular product on metal numerous times,just get out the air pockets so condensation can't form and cause more rust.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/duwops57/sets/72157625809783906/

If sound deadening is what you are looking for, I would say that a pad type product would work better than spray on product. A spray on product will transfer sound more because you are bonding the metal to the product. You just made on solid piece out of it. Since a mat is a second piece of material, the sound will not transfer as well.

Think of all the people who have spot welded new sections in their floor and don't have them sealed properly. what is the moisture going to do when it gets trapped in the seams?
From my observations, the older trucks and cars were not really designed well in eliminating migrating moisture. Just about anything that is sandwiched between the floor sheet metal and the final substrate, i.e. carpet will in fact trap moisture. I think the solution is to properly seal the vehicle.

Sealing is certainly going to be better with a spray on product. Sound deadening is a different issue.

Peel-n-Seal with foil tape on the seams, is my choice. I have used it on several vehicles, some approaching 10 years, in service. The factory sound deadener used on the floor of the '60-'66 Chevy/GMC trucks has been in place for 45+ years. When removing it, I have never found any rust under it. In fact, the paint looks brand new, if I am able to peel back a sizeable piece, otherwise, I use a wide blade chisel in my air hammer, to carefully remove it, without damaging the sheetmetal. It is asphalt impregnated, as many of the sound mats.

I used peal-n-seal also. It has been on for at least 4 years now, no problems with moisture or rust!

Did you have any problems with odor? The internet is full of people claiming it smelled, and an equal number of people saying it doesn't. I was planning on double layering it on the firewall to try and keep the engine noise down, do you think it'll work?

I used roofing rubber also, I notice no smell but mine was w/o any windows for 3-4 yrs after the installation.

I worked For Rover cars Landrover and then BMW for 13 years , We did some Panel work for Nissan when they stopped building the micra and Almera we did all the spares that they are required too build. On the Doors we had too build we would take the Door skin put on pads very like the Roofing material and roller them on with as someone said here a wallpaper seaming roller then Apply a bead of sealing mastic around the edge of the door skin and anti rattle sealant on the tabs of the side impact bars holding the Doorskin tight. the whole thing was then Hydralic Pressed folding over the seam all the way round the door traping the inner too the outer. On my own Vehicles in the past I have used Hammerite underbody seal very effectivly but I used this too mainly seal inside panel gaps and seams as it remains flexible and wont peal and crack

would using rubberized undercoating beneath the hood help in the noise reduction as well? or is most noise transmitted through the firewall?

I used the foil faced " peel & seal " on my firewall and floors - no smell issues, and does a decent job with soundproofing - probably not as good as the dynamat stuff, but waaaaay less $$$

Most of your sound comes through the firewall and floor.

I use the insulation for water heaters. It's a bubble wrap material with a foil on one side and is white on the other side. You silicone it on and it works great.