The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Pump-to-Carb Fuel Line Question

I would like to replace my fuel line between the pump and the carb. I see one is offered for about $25 from the reproduction parts suppliers. On the other hand, I could buy some straight line from the FLAPS and bend it myself.

I'd like to hear from folks who have done this work already.

Can anyone comment on the fit of the ones from the repro houses? Will I end up re-bending it anyway?

As far as bending one myself, I considered making a mockup out of coat hanger wire, then matching it up on the work bench. I figured I'd fill the line with salt to prevent kinks while using a tube bending tool. I have a basic flaring tool for the ends. Do I have the proper equipment if I do the work at home?

Am I missing anything? Recommendations?

Thanks.

Bill

Measure out what you think you need and head off to the store. You might be able to get really close on length. If you do have to cut, use a double flare. No need to fill the line before bending. I always buy extra so when I bend it wrong I don't have to go back, if I get it right, I just return what I didn't use. You can also make two pieces fit if the length isn't right, just put the junction where its not to noticeable.

If you have the stock one, just use it for a pattern, its really easy to make, and if it doesn't follow the same path, its no big deal as long as it works and fits right.

NAPA sells a greenish grey fuel line you can bend with your hands along with the standard silver brake line. The green stuff is supper easy to work with if you don't mind the color.

Joe

TxLaTx:

I purchased the pre-bent and it fit right it. Note they all order from one shop----sometimes they have in stock and other times they drop ship from the third party. I thought about bending the lines myself but didn't want to go through the aggravation at the time (as I had never tried bendig lines before). I believe there is a small learning curve to make sure that you get the bend in the right place.

There is nothing wrong with doing it yourself. Note that many of the FLAPS have a tool loan program (so you don't have to purchase one-time use tools).

Hope this helps and I am sure that you will get other opinions.

With a good bender and flare tool it can be fun to do yourself. And if you do this one then next time and time after that you'll be more and more comfortable bending lines for brakes and so on.
Pick up extra, sometimes the coat hanger pattern doesn't work out so well and trial and error with real line is necessary to get the fit you desire.

That said, if you don't ever plan to make lines again just buy the pre made one.

Grigg

As stated, do it yourself for about $5 in line. Mock it up with the hanger and then measure the lenght of that. When ya buy the line go a tad longer and then you can cut and reflare one end if necessary. Take the old one with you to ensure fittings (on both ends) have the same threads. Start at the carb when bending to get the line to 'line up' with the tab by the coolant neck (at front of valve cover). If you plan to install a filter between the carb and pump, now is a good time. One short piece from carb, inline filter, then route to pump. Good luck!

I also purchased the pre-bent one's and they fit perfect. I also bought the SS Vacume line for my 1953, 1954 and my 1958 truck's and they are awesome. If you're doing a restore and you want it to look factory and you want to be proud to open the hood at a show save you money and buy the pre-bent units. of course that's just my opion and I love reading what you guy have to say. I'm here to learn and help.

Scott

If you can bend and flare tubing, do it. Otherwise, the pre-bent units are usually good. Just be sure you get a fuel line for a truck or car fuel pump (they are different in some years).

The only thing I would add is, if you're doing it yourself, buy tubing that is actually a little longer then you need. If a flare gets messed up, you'll be able to cut it off and start again.

Thanks for all of the ideas. Given how inexpensive line is at my FLAPS and I have the tools already, I'm going to give it a try. If it doesn't work to my satisfaction, I'll pony up and buy a pre-bent line.

I'm relieved to read that the fit and finish is good. The last thing I want is to spend money on junk.

As recommended, I'll slightly "over-buy" to make sure I get it right.

Thanks to all! Good food for thought.

Bill

I found a piece already flared with nuts at NAPA the right length for my '56. I just don't remember what the length was.

I'm halfway there, Cletis. I thought I'd buy one pre-flared + nuts, but extra long and then cut/flare one end to make it the right length...and then after bending, twisting, and kinking it so that it looks worse than the one I have installed, I'll end up buying a pre-bent one from one of our sponsors.

That's my plan.

Bill

Good plan.

type "Swagelock tubing bender instructions" into google and you'll get their manual that tells you exactly how and where to bend tube exactly right every time.
Do it yourself, its fun !

One last tip, tape the fittings to each end of the line. Nothing is more frustrating than making the perfect bend, only to find the fitting has slid to the wrong side of that 'perfect' bend. Good luck!

The pre-bent stuff usually only comes up 4 ft. It is double flaired so you can use it for brake lines (unless they have somthing I don't know about)

Andy46: Whew! Those "Swagelock Tubing Bender Instructions" contain LOTS of detail. Thanks for the tip!

Big Tee: Been there, done that. Good call!

Bill

I need to see those instructions....
Have a 3/8" Swagelok bender, and it is hands down the best tubing bender I own or have ever seen. Need to find more sizes of them too, without loosing an arm and a leg.

Grigg

They maybe a little pricey, but in my experience with tubing benders is you get what you pay for.
Keep an eye on ebay and you can come across them reasonable, download the pdf instruction manual and you'll be bending like a pro in no time, you can even sell some preformed lines online, and get some cash back!
Cheers
AM

I want my fuel and vac lines to look "near stock." Should I buy steel or stainless? Pros/Cons? And yes, I'll buy pre-bent.

Thanks,

I'm not sure why they need to be double flared. I used a very hard, pre-painted fuel line all the way from the tank to the pump, then from there to the filter and a short piece to the carb. All single flares and also my first go at flaring tubes. I had no problems, will they fail at some point?

Pro for steel: more original
Pro for stainless: never rust
Con for steel: if you don't want it to show surface corrosion, you'll need some clear coat on it (and it might need some periodic maintenance). If you don't clear coat it, then it will look like yours did back in the late '50s
Con for stainless: if you are bending it yourself, it isn't as easy to bend as alloy steel

There is a third option: FLAPS also sell a very dark colored line, not quite black, has a tinge of green in it. I wouldn't call this "near stock" either.

I ended up buying straight steel lines, and bent them all exactly how I wanted them. I replaced my pump/carb fuel line, the vacuum line between the pump and carb base, and also the steel vacuum line mounted to the engine block on the passenger side. By bending them myself, I eliminated any question whether my fuel pump connection points are stock, as well as the fuel filter bowl location (I have a small brass fitting between the carb and the filter bowl).

My motivation to change out the old lines wasn't because of rust. It was because the lines were kinked and hand-bent. They were entirely too long. I'm happy with my new lines.

Bill