Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 197 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 197 | I have a 228 in my '40 GMC that's been rebuilt ... 5 years ago. Got majorly sidetracked because of a move, etc. and now it's been over 5 years! Crazy. Anyway, I'm planning on getting this thing going so I can finish the truck. What advice do you guys have as far as initial startup after it's been sitting for so long? Right now, the engine is mounted in the truck but I haven't gotten the trans installed. Can the engine be fired up as is?
Neil 1940 GMC 1/2 Ton
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 | Here's my 2 cents. First I would check that none of the valves are stuck and then I would put some oil in each cylinder and turn the engine over by hand/wrench. If you're just curious to see it run then fire her up. If you can stand to leave it be that would be better as a decent breaking in for the engine would have it running up to temp. for some extended time and at various loads and rpms. Probably won't do any harm to run it briefly. Just watch to see that you get oil pressure pretty quick. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 89 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 89 | I am almost at the same point as Neil. My question is how do I put oil in each cylinder as I never removed the oil? The engine is on the frame with the trans. I have been pushing the truck back and forth in the garage with the thought that this would oil he cylinders. Is this correct if not what do I need to do to get oil in the cylinders? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 64 | Take each sparkplug out and put a couple of squirts of oil in with an oil can. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 215 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 215 | Hold the bus here, you mean your pushing the vehicle back and forth in gear to turn the motor over? Are you kidding? Tell me your kidding? Take out the distributor, spin the oil pump shaft with a drill to get oil pressure on a known good pressure gauge. Then put a few drops of oil inside each cylinder after removing the plugs. Turn it over by hand making sure the valves aren't stuck, now your good to go start it! I am almost at the same point as Neil. My question is how do I put oil in each cylinder as I never removed the oil? The engine is on the frame with the trans. I have been pushing the truck back and forth in the garage with the thought that this would oil he cylinders. Is this correct if not what do I need to do to get oil in the cylinders? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Once you can turn the engine over by hand, with the plugs out you can spin it with the starter. You can probably see the oil pressure build when you do this.
If it was a rebuild with a new camshaft, you need to be careful to do the breakin procedure when you actually run it for more than a brief moment. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,190 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,190 | I never turn a engine over any more then needed to get it assembled. Once together, I leave it alone till the day of start up and break in. I never start one with out breaking it in at the same time. Parts and labor is to expensive to risk just messing about with it. Any of the name brand cam grinders will tell you, its the first few seconds of a new cams life that determine if it lives or dies. Some of the new V8 lifters now have a oil groove cut on the out side of them to spray extra oil on the lobes, its just that important to keep them oiled!
If the engine is in the frame, you can go ahead and start it up. Do a proper break in run, if you don't have the 20 to 30 minutes needed for break-in, don't bother starting it.
Old used cams and lifters with weak valve springs will not be so touchy about the break in. In fact you may not need to worry at all with a bottle EOS added to the oil, or high grade break in oil, its new cams and lifters you need to worry about. Bearings just need oil ASAP. The rings will break in under a load once the truck is road worthy.
The key points to watch is oil pressure and temperature, keep the first one high and the second one low!
Every time you turn the engine, you wipe the assembly lube off the bearings and cam. You must prime the oil system so once it starts it has oil pressure to replace what is now missing. Any delay in oil can lead to trouble, even just a few rotations!
Joe
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 197 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 197 | Thanks for all the advice guys. Pretty much what I expected. Everything's new in the engine. I'll make sure everything's lubed up really well right before startup. With it being this long I don't want to take any chances.
Neil 1940 GMC 1/2 Ton
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | Neil, I have an engine dyno setup for the gmc engines. The dyno has guages for oil, temp and rpms. I broke my 302 in on this run in stand/dyno. Unfoftunately this dyno stand is up in St. Helena, CA right now with a 270 sitting on it. It does sound like you could break the motor in on your frame. When are you planning on fireing it up? I might have to go for a little ride just for the occasion. I love the sound of a new motor firing up for the first time.
John | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 197 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 197 | Hey John, I'd love to have you come out for first startup. Not sure when it will be but I will definitely let you know.
Neil 1940 GMC 1/2 Ton
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | | | |
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