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#704280 12/17/2010 10:22 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
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'Bolter
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I have a 228 in my '40 GMC that's been rebuilt ... 5 years ago. Got majorly sidetracked because of a move, etc. and now it's been over 5 years! Crazy. Anyway, I'm planning on getting this thing going so I can finish the truck. What advice do you guys have as far as initial startup after it's been sitting for so long? Right now, the engine is mounted in the truck but I haven't gotten the trans installed. Can the engine be fired up as is?


Neil
1940 GMC 1/2 Ton
Joined: Dec 2010
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Here's my 2 cents. First I would check that none of the valves are stuck and then I would put some oil in each cylinder and turn the engine over by hand/wrench. If you're just curious to see it run then fire her up. If you can stand to leave it be that would be better as a decent breaking in for the engine would have it running up to temp. for some extended time and at various loads and rpms. Probably won't do any harm to run it briefly. Just watch to see that you get oil pressure pretty quick.

dmart #704341 12/18/2010 1:50 AM
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I am almost at the same point as Neil. My question is how
do I put oil in each cylinder as I never removed the oil?
The engine is on the frame with the trans. I have been pushing
the truck back and forth in the garage with the thought that this
would oil he cylinders. Is this correct if not what do I need to do to get oil in the cylinders?

cvett #704390 12/18/2010 4:28 AM
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Take each sparkplug out and put a couple of squirts of oil in with an oil can.

cvett #704430 12/18/2010 7:09 AM
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Hold the bus here, you mean your pushing the vehicle back and forth in gear to turn the motor over?
Are you kidding?
Tell me your kidding?
Take out the distributor, spin the oil pump shaft with a drill to get oil pressure on a known good pressure gauge.
Then put a few drops of oil inside each cylinder after removing the plugs.
Turn it over by hand making sure the valves aren't stuck, now your good to go start it!

Originally Posted by cvett
I am almost at the same point as Neil. My question is how
do I put oil in each cylinder as I never removed the oil?
The engine is on the frame with the trans. I have been pushing
the truck back and forth in the garage with the thought that this
would oil he cylinders. Is this correct if not what do I need to do to get oil in the cylinders?


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andy46 #704460 12/18/2010 1:04 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Once you can turn the engine over by hand, with the plugs out you can spin it with the starter. You can probably see the oil pressure build when you do this.

If it was a rebuild with a new camshaft, you need to be careful to do the breakin procedure when you actually run it for more than a brief moment.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
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J
'Bolter
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I never turn a engine over any more then needed to get it assembled. Once together, I leave it alone till the day of start up and break in. I never start one with out breaking it in at the same time. Parts and labor is to expensive to risk just messing about with it. Any of the name brand cam grinders will tell you, its the first few seconds of a new cams life that determine if it lives or dies. Some of the new V8 lifters now have a oil groove cut on the out side of them to spray extra oil on the lobes, its just that important to keep them oiled!

If the engine is in the frame, you can go ahead and start it up.
Do a proper break in run, if you don't have the 20 to 30 minutes needed for break-in, don't bother starting it.

Old used cams and lifters with weak valve springs will not be so touchy about the break in. In fact you may not need to worry at all with a bottle EOS added to the oil, or high grade break in oil, its new cams and lifters you need to worry about. Bearings just need oil ASAP. The rings will break in under a load once the truck is road worthy.

The key points to watch is oil pressure and temperature, keep the first one high and the second one low!

Every time you turn the engine, you wipe the assembly lube off the bearings and cam. You must prime the oil system so once it starts it has oil pressure to replace what is now missing. Any delay in oil can lead to trouble, even just a few rotations!

Joe

Joe H #704650 12/19/2010 4:22 AM
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'Bolter
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Thanks for all the advice guys. Pretty much what I expected. Everything's new in the engine. I'll make sure everything's lubed up really well right before startup. With it being this long I don't want to take any chances.


Neil
1940 GMC 1/2 Ton
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,897
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Neil,
I have an engine dyno setup for the gmc engines. The dyno has guages for oil, temp and rpms. I broke my 302 in on this run in stand/dyno. Unfoftunately this dyno stand is up in St. Helena, CA right now with a 270 sitting on it. It does sound like you could break the motor in on your frame. When are you planning on fireing it up? I might have to go for a little ride just for the occasion. I love the sound of a new motor firing up for the first time.

John

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'Bolter
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Hey John,
I'd love to have you come out for first startup. Not sure when it will be but I will definitely let you know.


Neil
1940 GMC 1/2 Ton
Joined: Dec 2004
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;D


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