The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop AC glass top fuel pump rebuild?

Getting back to the AC single action fuel pump rebuild and am looking for ideas on getting the old valve out with out butchering up the casting. Any good ideas????

DG

Picture?
It looked tricky last I looked in one.

Grigg

Denny,

This guy has a killer deal on these pumps NOS almost worth buying the new one to experiment with? They are Borg but look very close to the AC. $5.99 each.

eBay #250728153508

Note these are not mine so no selling just trying to help!

Will this pump fit my 261? Any negatives?

Here ye go Grigg, got any ideas???
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/131318344/large
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/131318342/large
I’ve been thinking bout carving out a couple of jaws for the slide hammer that will hook under the rim.
I suppose most people just take a Big Old Screwdriver and pry them out. But you know me, I just can’t do anything the easy way.

Gotta be something wrong with those pumps Brad, $6 plus $15 shipping brings the price up a bit but still cheap since the vendors are getting sixty bucks for them. I've asked about deals like that, that is if they will combined shipping and gotten a no every time. That's where they're making the money.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

perfect shapes to get a good purchase for turning, maybe they'd twist out?

Bill

seven pumps including the shipping works out to twelve bucks a pump, doesn't sound too shabby to me

I have drilled holes in them and then screwed a tap in. They have always come out like that. They are junk anyway. As for the Borg Warner pumps, BW made OEM and there is nothing wrong with them. Looks like the guy has sold all 14 he had.

Think that might be the best way Ken, thanks. Might just mount it up in the mill and punch out the centeres and collaps the outside. Only thing I was concerned about was gouging up the casting.

14 pumps? Still think that was way to cheap and there had to be something wrong with them. I'd bet money that he wouldn't ship 7 pumps for $15 andy, like I said, I've dealt with a lot of those deals on ebay where the shipping was where the profit was and if you bought 7 items for $6 you would end up paying $90 for the shipping. He only showed the one pump and it was pretty black looking, it wouldn't surprise me if the rest had been soaking in a flooded basement and that's the reason he was letting them go for next to nothing. Come on guy, this is 2010 and nobody that is smart enough to figure out how to sell on ebay is dumb enough to sell a good fuel pump that fits a popular vintage Chevy engine for six bucks.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, isn't removing those valves similar to removing freeze plugs from a block? I have been shown a couple of different methods of doing that job, all very low tech, and they all work.

Ray

A little hooked puller widget might yank the one on he right out.
The one on the left, if it seals any, might come out by over pressurizing with a grease gun, might also split the housing...

Drilling and threading a small slide hammer in sounds like a good idea too.

Grigg

Sheet metal screw in the small slide hammer worked like a charm, took less than a minute to pop them out with absolutely no damage what so ever to the casting. Only way to go.

DG

Here is a picture of my glass top fuel pump from my '48 1.5 ton. Before I destroy my old valves I want to make sure that these new ones (in the picture) will work on my pump. The kit I purchased is from Jim Carter.
I appreciate all input, Thanks

I did as Denny mentions with the sheet metal screw. Worked perfect. I've done this a few times.

Don is this what you would consider a 'small slide hammer'?
Do you see any problems with the new valves ? Though they have a different style top/bottom the size and functionality seems the same to me.

I used a cotter pin puller on mine and popped them out. It didn't mar the pump top.

As long as the valves are the same size, they should work. Mine were different types but the size was the same.

Other AC pumps I've taken apart had a small hourglass piece of thin metal placed between the valves to hold them in place and attached directly between the valves with a small screw.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, I picked up a cotter pin puller today, tomorrow I hope to remove the old ones.

I have also used a vice grip on the screw and then a small piece of wood to pry against. They come out pretty easy. The replacements usually look different but work just fine.

The old ones were not to difficult to remove. The 'star face' broke off of one, but otherwise it was straight forward. Thanks again!