The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Your input will be greatly appreciated!

Guys,
I just would like some level headed input before I commit. Any ideas, suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated. Many thanks to those who have assisted me thus far!
Here's the nitty and the gritty:
For my '59 Apache 3200 step side basket-case project, both of the engines acquired with the truck are busted down. (They had sat on the ground under a tree for 20 some odd years… YIKES!) My plan was to bust them both down, assess the damage and hopefully build a good engine from the two. With that now done, I’ve determined this:
Where I thought they were both 235's originally, one of them is a 261 that had a 235 head.
I look on Ebay for parts etc. and nothing for 261, but 235’s all over the place… pistons, bearings, etc…
So now, I’m looking at this situation… 235 block with the 261 crank and cam. Does anyone see a problem with this scenario?

Jerry

Don't think that ebay always gives you the best deal.

Go see your local Napa or other local parts store. They should be able to get what you need for the 261. It's a great engine. I have one in my 1958 1/2 ton. Pulls plenty strong. Just a little rough on gas.

The horsepower ratings on the 261 really don't do it justice. It is the increase in torque that really makes a difference.

I can't advise what to do but I have a 261 head available that's been magnafluxed and needs valve guides replaced. Email me if interested.

[email protected]

Thanks for the input, Roy. I'm open to any and all opinions that anyone may have... and I'm pretty frugal by necessity. I'll be sure to shop around before I throw my hard-earned away.
FYI, The heaviest work I may be doing with this truck is pulling a vintage 16' "canned-ham" travel trailer.

Thanks for the offer, Allan.
The 235 head that was on the 261 is an 848 casting... From what I understand, it's desirable for getting a better combustion ratio... though I'm not into racing.
I'll keep your offer in mind as I try to sort out the price differences on which direction I should go. I do wish they had both been 235's... or both 261's!

Jerry

Thanks for the input, truckernix.
As I understand it, the 261 was for a "big-boy" truck... not so much a half-ton. For this, more torque is best.
The truck was fitted with a factory front brush-guard and a heavy-duty square-pattern rear bumper. It's possible the guy wanted a stout hay-hauling truck... still a mystery.

Most engine parts will be available through your FLAPS for less than ebay plus no shipping. There are a lot of farm trucks still in service with that engine family.

This comparative spec sheet may help you too.Scroll down on this link.


http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1959trucksup/59ctsms0815.html

Wow Drew, thanks! I'm saving this one.
I see only subtle changes between the sizes on the 235 and 261, the biggest being the pistons. The cam and crank will work in the 235... might even give it more kick at higher rpm. I understand they used the 261 crank in the '54 vette 235.
Looks like I can go either way with this one. I just need to choose a frappin block, mic the bores to see that I'm good on stock, then determine if I can hone it out or have it bored.
I shouldn't worry about mpg comparison for my engine choice... surely there isn't that much difference. ???
Also, can anyone tell me if I need to drill the steam holes in the 235 head for the 261 (assuming I go that route)?

I would go with the 261. More torque, easier to find parts.

Thanks Tiny,
You made me stop and think... now I know what FLAPS is! ha
I usually hit O'Reilly... mostly modern vehicle parts. Who's your favorite go-to for the classic stuff?

Napa. They have lots of surprising stuff available.

Appreciate the input Big Chevy 3600!

Jerry

235 head and steam holes.
I've read a lot, but nothing convincing as to whether this modification NEEDS to be done. I don't want to fry the 261. The 235 head that was on my 261 was not drilled... the engine failed. In all fairness, I don't know the circumstances of the failure.
Maybe I should have the holes drilled anyway? What would it hurt?
Any thoughts?

Thanks Roy! I believe we have a NAPA here in Palestine.
I'll be sure to get pricing from them.

Jerry

Jerry,

Drill the 6 additional water passage holes in the 235 head. Otherwise, water will not circulate between the block and head as was apparently needed to cool the 3 pairs of siamesed cylinders (GM must have thought that these extra water passages are necessary).

I understand they used the 261 crank in the '54 vette 235.

It's the same crank.

I agree, Tim... I work in an Engineering field and can also appreciate any features of design.
As I understand it, the 261 springs are slightly longer too... probably to get a greater valve seal. I haven't disassembled the head yet, but I'll check the spring length while I'm at it.

Jerry

Panic, I've read that too. Also, I've read that the 235 head with casting *848 is desirable for the 261 engine if you're a hotrodder... which I'm not... but that's just a perk for me if the head's good.

Jerry

Mr Wilson.. the 235 block can be bored up to 1/8" safely so if you choose to do that don't be concerned about it. There are 261 pistons available from Egge, Kanter and Arias and others if you need them.

Thanks for the tip, Dave!
I have a Kanter catalog but haven't heard of Egge and Arias... I'm still new at this, can ya tell?
I'll check out their websites.
You know, I may decide to rebuild both engines anyway!
Jerry