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Its time to change the oil in my "54" stock 235, what is the recomended weight oil and how many quarts does it take (no filter)

Hello mperk,

I too was worried about my first oil change in my '52 2-ton with a 235 (no filter). A friend told me I need to use only detergent oil (expensive and difficult to find). Someone else suggested I use only 50wt non-detergent. I looked around this site and saw several other suggestions. I finally decided to go with Super Tech 10W-30 (Wal-Mart brand) for our upcoming Wisconsin winter and then 10W-40 for summer. It took just less than 5 quarts. I hope this helps. Good luck.

A pertinent page from the 1954 Truck Operator's Manual.

Late in 1954 other grade oils were recommended.

I have used 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40, and 20W-40 (in an old engine). I think I am now using Rotella multi-grade Diesel truck oil.

Recommended oils for pre-54 truck engines (low-pressure 216 and 235) might have been different.

mperk did you see this post ? I posted a chart and others had more info.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=694507#Post694507

Detergent oil is very easy to find, all modern motor oils are detergent, unless marked otherwise.

He might have said Non-detergent.

...even the non detergent is not "expensive". I see Advance Auto has NON-detergent in Shell, Castrol and I think they have a store brand in ND. If they have it I'm sure the rest of the Flaps have it to.

I'm using the SHELL Rotella diesel oil in my 235 it lines the cylinder walls and doesn't all just run back to the pan. Runs great!

When I worked in an oil change shop in high school I remember a lot of guys running rotella and dello diesel engine oils in there antiques.

I think Rotella is a good choice for any hard working engine.The additive package needed for a good diesel oil has good acid neutrilizers and most if not all styles still have zddp for protection of our cam lobes and followers this is denoted by NOT finding the words "energy conserving" on the round symbol where the service classification (se,sf,sg,Etc) is found.
Most modern automobile engines are built with tighter clearances than our stovebolts and need oil made from thinner basestock to allow proper flow especially during warmup.
In multi grade oils,(10-30,5-30,etc)the lower number is the basestock from which the grade is formulated by adding viscosity modifiers that delay thinning as oil temperature rises--so 10-30 and 10-40 would have the same cold flow ability(like sae 10) but the 10-40 would not thin out as much at 210 deg F which is where the upper rating is found.
Multi grade oil DOES NOT get thicker at higher temp, it gets thinner but does not get as thin as the straight grade at the same temp.
For some good oil info from questions answered take a look at
www.bobistheoilguy (not this Bob)

Something to bear in mind if you use any of the Deisel grade engine oils, they are very high detergent. On an engine that's been run on regular gas engine grade oils, or one that's never been overhauled, this could cause issues by cleaning out any buildup, especially around seals. Not saying you can't use it, but it's best if you're using it on a fresh engine. Personally, I don't buy the hype on the current grade oil wiping out engines. In every case I've heard, the real problem lies in improper engine assembly, improperly manufactured parts, improperly matched parts (race springs on a street cam), or incorrect break in procedure. On an engine that has already been broken in, it's not as big of an issue, or at least not as much as the snake oil manufacturers would want you to beleive. Personally, I would suggest a quality brand oil, 10W30 or perhaps a straight 30 grade, I personally like Valvoline, in the current SM grade oil.

We might need to send this to MYTH BUSTERS ! Use there money and parts .

this could cause issues by cleaning out any buildup
I agree - if the engine has never been run with detergent oil, there will be considerable sludge in suspension. The first oil change should be sooner than normal to make sure that stuff doesn't go through the pump and bearings too many times, or clog the filter (if you have one).