The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk ANTI SQUEAK

I need to replace my front sheetmetal and am looking for anti squeak material. I have bought several kits from LMC and classic (Chevy Duty) but it doesn't seem to fit. I look in the shop manual and the part that talks about replacing front fenders says to put the anti squeak on the inner-fender first. Now this is in my 1951 shop manual. I don't know if there is suppose to be anti squeak between the front fenders and the lower cowl. When I look at LMC's catalog it doesn't show any anti squeak but between the inner and outer fender. The Steele catalog has nothing for the 51. What is the real truth?

If someone else removed the anti-squeek from your inner skirts then you might have missed that they were stappled to the inner skirt. Look for the douple holes where the stapples were at.
Denny G

I guess I should have checked my "teardown" pics. But where can you get this? What vendor carries them?

this might be it

as far as the fender welt goes, The aftermarket stuff is not like original, but works.

the part number for first link above is 37-725

Jim don't know how we got to "fender welting" but the ant-squeek is simply a heavy roofing tar paper. #30 roofing paper is exactly what the vendors are cutting the kits from. I've even gotten some from them that had the lines for the alighnment when it's laid down on the roof. The object is just to keep something between the two pieces of sheet metal beause the front clip does shift around a bit. It's nothing more than that.
DG

heres a pic of what I refer to as fender welt.
I may be confused
The after market stuff I bought has a bead reveal and not like original.

Good Luck.

There is two types. One with the "cosmetic" bead and then there is the "gaskets" or "seals".
I may be wrong but I don't think there were any factory trucks back then that had the "beads" on them.

My panel was original and like Denny said, its nothing more than #30 lb roofing paper. It was also between the fenders and body on my rear panel fenders but you can't see the stuff when the sheet metal is put together.
But, just like a lot of folks, since I'm not original I used some stuff that has the rubber, yes rubber not vinyl, bead on it. If anyone is interested the VW fender bead is good stuff as it does have a rubber bead and not vinyl....just info.

Thanks Denny, Dad, and Alvin. It looks like the simple answer is to put something between all sheetmetal to sheetmetal to reduce squeaking. Looks like I'll get some tar-paper and start cutting shapes.

Can't verify, but I have heard that VW strips are MUCH cheaper than GM and can be fitted well.
Glenn

Buy rubber electrical tape from a professional electrical supplier, you don't have to cut anything, and it forms really nice around the curves.
You can get it in different widths, and the big plus is, its sticky on one side!
Make sure its rubber though, cheap plastic doesn't work.

I think that beaded fender welt was used 47-55 between front fender and cowl (3.205) and between rear fenders and body on panel body trucks.

Here is the "anti-squeak" that I have always put between inner and outer fenders.

Am I reading the posts above incorrectly - does someone have documentation that beaded fender welt was not used between the front fender and the cowl from 47-54 GM trucks?

Also, my understanding is that no welting or anti-squeak was used between rear fenders and a pickup bed? However, many of us have used heavy tar paper in those locations.

My findings over the years are exactly as Tim posted. After much discussion in the past the general consensus is as Tim mentioned, no welting or anti squeak gasket between the rear fender and the bedside of the AD pickups. These are two flat surfaces that, when new close up leaving no gaps so there wasn’t a need for a beaded welting there. At the rear of the front fender to cowl we have two compound curves to match up and usually they are somewhat uneven, this is why the beaded fender welting was used there, it covers a lot of mismatch. This was the same thinking for using welting on the rear fenders to body on the panel trucks.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I understand what the welt is as my father-in-law was in the upholstery business for years and I use to use his double stitch sewing machines to make my own welt cord. However I don't understand what this "beaded" business is.

Tim, Denny
Is it correct that the anti squeak between inner and outer fenders is not welted but it is between outer fender and lower cowl?

"I may be wrong but I don't think there were any factory trucks back then that had the "beads" on them."

I made this statement above and must concur that Tim is correct. I had forgotten about the one at the front fender. THOSE I have seen.

Tim, do you think GM would not put the beaded stuff on "Fleet" vehicles?? I only say this because I am 99% sure my rear fenders on my panel had only the roofing type material between the rear fender and body. I think I still have a piece of the old stuff and it looked as if it didn't have the bead when I pulled it off.
Then again, I suppose anything could have happened over the past 60 years. I ask because I do know my vehicle was ordered as a delivery panel and used in a family business as a delivery. I'm trying to get my hands on some original photos that suppose to exist of my panel since new, and over the years....but the guy has not called me back.

Thanks for helping keep me straight and for sharing the Master Parts Book.

Jim, welting can come in several different flavors. Used in clothing or furniture it can be simply folding the fabric over to double it and placing it between the two pieces you are sewing together, it can be flat welting with a flat strip of card board or when sewing a round cord into it is often referred to as beaded welting. I have seen welting on some vintage cars where the fabric is just doubled over and placed between the sheet metal, this leave a nice small bead visible without using a cord.
The AD pickups trucks only used the "beaded" welting and only on the finished side at the rear of the front fender. All of the other Anti-squeak material was as we’ve mentioned several times, is simply flat tar paper strips as is pictured in the photo from Chevs of the 40’s that Tim posted. The sheet metal was pre-painted prior to assembly of the front clip so the fender welting on a newly delivered truck would have been black since it would have been an added expense to stock welting of every color.
Alvin I can't document this but I'd bet a large pizza on it, that all the fender welting used at all the assembly plants was just simply black beaded welting. It was very inexpensive being just light gauge lacquered canvas material and as I said it covered the gaps from mismatched or poorly formed seams. .

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks Denny. I saw something yesterday at Home Depot that looked like it would be the perfect material. It is part of their roofing inventory, right next to the tarpaper, and it's the stuff builders use to lay over a flat area and burn in with a torch to protect from water. It's about 1/32 or 1/16 thick and it is a rubbery/tar-like material.
problem is, it comes in a roll of 25', weighs about 60#, and sells for $75. I had to pass on that.

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/images_product/large/3701900C.jpg

I purchased the kit in the above link.
The 4 seals in the top of the pic are for the inner/outer fenders, and the two small plates that bolt to firewall just above inner fenders.
(plate left of heater hose)
Those seals are a spongy/rubber type material and as Denny stated in earlier post they were originally stapled. The kit comes with staples.

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-72-Fender-Welt-Black/productinfo/37-521/

Here is where I used that black welt.

I did not care for the stuff to much.
Its not like what I removed, Its not as wide, and it could be a crud trap.
When I do it over I'll use the tar paper like suggested earlier.

Good Luck
(Thank you, for those of you who served)

I have the same kit. The material for the lower fender to cowl has holes that do not correspond to the original. Thanks for the picture it really made sense.

It seems, for some reason, you can not find "tar-paper" any more; probably a result of the environmental protection act of the early 90s. Now it is just felt-paper.
OK guys, I did the unthinkable, I went to the archives. I think I have found what I need to keep this Bolt from squeaking. I'll post pics as I go.

the paper gaskets that came in the kit I bought were for where the inner fender bolts to firewall,(passenger side) and parking brake bracket.(drivers side)

I did use those.

Good Luck
(Thank you, for those of you who served)

That explains it. Thanks DAD

Denny Graham: Re: ANTI SQUEAK
Come on guys!!!!!! you have the correct material stuck to the cowl Dad. Who ever is suggesting “tar paper” there is INCORRECT! The “tar/felt paper” goes between the inner skirt where it bolts to the toe board, just below and to the right of the taped fender welting in the picture. And then the long piece belongs between the fender top flange and inner skirt.
The sponge rubber weather seal is stapled to the front of the inner skirt and as mentioned the splash filler where the fender meets the cowl.
DG

Denny sent this but it didn't take for some reason.

It probably didn't get posted because I'm being black listed Jim. I’m short tempered and get impatient, then Charlie has to cut me off at the knees till I can pull myself together!!! Happens pretty often but my legs always seem to grow back after a week or so.
DG


Hope ya know I’m just pullin’ your jeeber Charlie…..

I made a comment earlier about how I didn’t care too much for the aftermarket fender welting the vendors are selling.

pic 1

pic 2

I just dont see why these vendors cant test the products they sell, compare it to the originals, In this case just go back and tell than manufacturer to make the stuff a inch wider. And let the buyer trim as needed.

The wheels fling crud all day up in them fender wells. Any gaps could lead to moister trap.

Sorry about ranting on your thread BIG CHEVYY 3600, hope my earlier post didn’t confuse the situation.
Good Luck

Thanks DAD.
I believe it is imperative to "get it right" on this anti-squeak deal. Who would ever want to disassemble all these parts to redo when the squeaks start.
It would help all of us to share pictures of how we did it.

Guys check out the pics below:

http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/...?action=view&current=ANTISQUEAK1.jpg

http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/...?action=view&current=ANTISQUEAK2.jpg

http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/...?action=view&current=ANTISQUEAK3.jpg

http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/...?action=view&current=ANTISQUEAK4.jpg


These look like conveyor belt material. I don't remember where these go but I think the same material was used between the inner out outer fenders. I don't see anything like this with any vendor.

Front cab mounts.
pic

The square one goes between the cab and frame

The round one, between the washer/nut and frame where the bolt passes through.

I bought my replacement from classic parts

Good luck

Look at the stuff that is at the top edge of the inner fender.
Here:
http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/...tion=view&current=CopyofP6090046.jpg

And here:
http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/...WN/?action=view&current=P6090033.jpg

Here is another shot of it. It looks like it might have been welt at one time:
http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/...tion=view&current=CopyofP6090034.jpg

It appears to be some kind of fabric sandwiched between rubber or tar.

What is it and who sells it?

I believe all those pieces come in the kit tclederman provided earlier
http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/images_product/large/3701900C.jpg

The spongy seals(top of pic in above link) in the kit go here

and the gaskets with the 6 punched holes will replace this

again the stuff in the kit is not like original, My truck is a 3100, Denny will have better info on the 3600.

Hopefully someone will chime in to confirm or correct

Good luck

I dug through some of the vendor parts I bought a year or more ago and found all my anti squeak material. I also got a 3'x 3' sheet of the stuff roofers torch and cover flat roof areas. It has a fiberglass base and is between 1/8" and 3/16' thick. I believe it will work much better and for much longer than the felt stuff you buy. A couple of pics below:

http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/...ew&current=PB130345.jpg&newest=1

http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/...ew&current=PB130345.jpg&newest=1