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| | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 | The rear hubs on my '53 3100 are leaking gear oil. Would replacing the rear wheel bearing seals solve my problem? Are there any problems I can look forward to when replacing these seals? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | Not as long as you know how to pull the axles. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 | The Shop Manual seems pretty straight forward as far as removal and replacement of the axles. Are these the only seals that keep the oil where it is supposed to be? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 575 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 575 | Pinion seal at the diff, but that no where near the hub! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Scare up an installation tool slightly smaller than the seal O.D. be it a big socket, pc. of pipe etc. It can get bent using a hammer to tap it in and if the bearings are original it’s probably worth changing them while you’re there. Also look for a groove in the axles and if present try to offset the new seals a bit.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 | Thanks for the tip on the socket or pipe...Should I change the wheel bearing seals and the pinion seals? How about an online resource for the parts? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | If you have a pinion seal then your truck has been molested as there’s no such thing with a torque tube setup. If the stock rear is there the bearings and seals are available from places like BC Bearing, Kinecor, Commercial Bearing, etc. cheaper than the vendors and here’s the numbers: Rear axle seals: CRC 18695 Rear axle bearings: National R1502CL As for an online source, here ya go but they have no stock: http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/6277/Chevrolet_REAR_AXLE_BEARING_SEAL.html
Last edited by Curt B.; 11/08/2010 4:18 PM.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Axle seals can be driven in with a piece of wood and a mallet. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 | I don't want to waste money on parts that are good...how do I tell if the rear bearings need to be replaced? Thanks | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | Look at the bearings for pitting, scuffing or discoloring. Also look at the axle surface that rides against the bearing. Check it for scuffing, grooving. Before you pull the axle out see if the axle is loose, lift it up and down while holding it at the flange end. You can also look close at the seal and see if it cracked or split. Sometimes they get old and hard and it doesn't take much for them to go bad. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I'm with you Eight. If the bearings are good there is no need to replace them. Like
Don say's check them for pit's. If the axles are scored you know the brgs are bad. The seals are easy to get out & in once you pull the axles but the brgs can be tough. If there is grease on the shoe linings they will have to be replaced. There is no way to clean them sucsessfully.
Last edited by Wrenchbender Ret.; 11/08/2010 9:37 PM.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | Napa?? has them at the best price | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 | Reading the shop manual at Rear Axle 4-4, #3 under Axle Shaft Bearing or Oil Seal Removal...what does it mean by "dress out the old stakes points." | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | I'm guessing they mean punch marks that stake the bearing in place and hold it from turning. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 97 | Any tips on removing the bearings and oil seals? Having a hard time with it. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 163 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 163 | I am replacing my rear wheel seals since i have my brakes apart. I am paying $56 for rear seals. The parts guy crossed the crc 18695 number with timken 414045. $26.99 each!!! Special order so i wont see them for 4 days.
I also am replacing my front bearing seals while i have everything apart. Timken part number 40973s which are $43.99 each and i dont get them for 4 days also.
If anyone knows of a better priced outlet, I am open to suggestion. Thanks. | | |
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