The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve adjustment question

I'm setting the valves right now on a newly rebuilt 235 with a Patrick's 3/4 cam. The engine is still on the stand and I know I'll have to readjust once I get it running, but this will get me close.

I didn't find an adjustment order in the manual so I used one from another I-6 motor that I did. I set #1 to TDC, adjusted valves 1,2,3,5,7,9. Then turned the motor 360 and adjusted 4,6,8,10,11,12.

My question:
I feel the lifting rods and #3 (2I) and #10 (5I) spin freely in my fingers at all rotations of the engine. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,
RedGreen

I can't say it's right or wrong but I do one cylinder at a time. I rotate the crank until one valve is open and adjust the one that's closed. Try that & see what happens.

Do you have solid of hydraulic lifters? And heres the valve adjustment off the tech tips here,

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/valveadjustment.htm

Hope that helps.

I have solid lifters. That tech tip will do perfectly. It's a slightly different procedure than the last I-6 I worked on. Thanks.

RedGreen,

Judging from the Tech-Tips, that sure is the proper sequence. I attempted to draw a little cartoon that showed valve location during each firing cycle....my head almost exploded.

I would recommend setting the valves one cylinder at a time as Tiny suggested. This will guarantee success, plus will allow you to see if any individual push rod might not be seated in the lifter (solids I presume). With the engine on a stand, this procedure isn't daunting at all.

I think if you add .005 when setting them cold, you can be done with this task for good.

Be sure to follow the mfg's directions on breaking in the camshaft. I have read articles dealing with the lack of extreme pressure additives in most modern motor oils. Many folks use a specific API rated oil to save the lobes and lifter from immediate destruction.

Stuart

To keep from trying to adjust a "dancing" rocker arm, bring the engine to operating temperature, shut it off and then adjust the valves. If you note when the rocker arms change the lift from exhaust to intake the opposite cylinder will be on the heel of the cam and will be O.K. for adjusting. When 6 rocks, 1 is ready, when 5 rocks, 2 is ready, etc. follow the firing order.
I have a tool from 50 years ago that has a socket with the screwdriver inside operated with a knob on top, it works fine for a running engine.

I understand that it is best to set the valves when the engine is at operating temperature but I have to get them close while it is on the stand for it to even start. That's what I'm trying to do.

atomarc, thanks for the tip on adding .005 when they're cold. The manual says they can be as much as .005 out, but doesn't say in which direction they'll be out. I'll add that to the .006" and .013" to set them at .011" and .018".

Thanks for all the input. I'll get back out there tonight and set them. Then I can finally button up the bottom of the engine and set this thing back between the frame rails.

I hope you haven't cranked this engine yet. The Howard M4F solid lifter cam cards sais .014 and .016 hot. Setting them Cold on the stand a tight .014 and .016 and you will be ok. Add a quart of Chevrolet GM EOS Engine Oil Supplement to the 30 weight in the pan. Start the engine and run it up to 2500 RPM for 20 minutes. The EOS will help break in the cam. After a couple weeks on running I set my cam at .012 and .014 to quiet it down and it better matches the 2.73 rear as it moves the power band up. Good luck.
52pu