The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Removing brake drums...should be simple, right??

I'm trying to get my truck ready for it's out of country inspection. I'm no stranger to removing a brake drum, or working on brakes...and I've been able to get the drums off every vehicle I've ever owned. Until now. The shop manual says to loosen off the adjusting wheel, and simply pull the drum off. The adjusting wheel doesnt seem to turn, and I cannot get the drum off at all.

The brakes work very well and are smooth and quiet, but I'd like to make sure anyway.

Any pointers as to what I'm doing wrong?

A few good strikes with a rubber mallet should do the trick.

My '65's drums were also stubborn. I had the wife hit the drum with a rubber mallet (like Tony states above) while I pulled on the drum. They came off, but it took some "persuasion".

Good luck!

You must disengage the ratchet on the star wheel adjuster to turn it "backwards". A small-diameter, long screwdriver works for me.
Also, my front drums were riveted to the hub. I ground the heads down and pressed the rivets out so I can check or work on the brakes without exposing the bearings/spindle.

cm

Agreed, but only on trucks with self adjusters. Earlier trucks (I bleive '65 was the first year for them) do not have self adjusters, and should be able to be turned back with just the adjuster spoon. As far as using a hammer, I prefer a brass headed hammer over a rubber mallet, puts more force where you need it and won't damage the drum.

Tried hammering them off, that's what I've done in the past and it usually worked. So mine would not have self adjusters...so they should turn if I pry them with a flatblade screwdriver, right? Seems like they are stuck or something. Drums being riveted to the hub?? Mine looks to be this way, there's three rivets, or something, on the drum. Does this mean the only way to get them off is to grind them off and drill them out??

No. You can take them off by taking off the dust cover and the spindle nut. Then the whole drum/bearing assembly should come off in 1 peice. If you need to replace the drum or remove it from the hub, then the rivets do need to me removed. They will also require removal if you plan to intall aftermarket wheels, as the will interfere with the wheel properly seating to the hub.

I had a similar problem on my 50 with one rear drum.

I tried a mallet, pry bar.
it ended up being corrosion as seen in this pic
You can see where the black paint is corroded over.
I got it to brake loose by spraying wd-40 in the pac man looking hole on the drum face, and the two round cut outs on the drum

pic 2

Your year truck may not have those holes on the drum

Good Luck

Dads50, my drums look just like yours. Mine have the Pac-Man hole too. I just find it funny how the 1960 shop manual says that I am supposed to just turn the adjusting wheel in, and the drums should come off. Never said anything about having to undo the backing plate and axle nut. Maybe I'll have to post pics. I'd love to get this truck on the road very soon, almost tempted to have whoever inspects it check the brakes, but they might not even know what to do with this old relic!

Oh one more thing...I have aftermarket wheels on it...sort of. They are a set of Rallyes from a 70s Chev 4X4. I do own a grinder and a drill. I'm thinking I'll drill them out, saves the hassle for later too.

I DON'T SEE WERE IT SAYS IF YOU HAVE A 1/2 OR 3/4 TON TRUCK BUT IF YOU HAVE A 3/4 TON THERE ARE SCREWS YOU HAVE TO REMOVE ON FRONT OF THE BRAKE DRUMS.

Hey Mikie,
We like the CAPS off. Some people regard it as yelling. Good point though. Welcome to the Bolt.

Sorry guys, never specified that...my truck is a half ton. THERE ARE NO SCREWS ON THE FRONT DRUMS. Ha ha, kidding about the Caps:D

SORRY not very good at typing,hunt and peck, LOL

It sounds like you have a big lip on the inner edge of the drums. The shoes are getting stuck on the lip. Wish I had better advice, but I use to use a 2x4 and 5 pound hammer on mine to help vibrate the shoes loose. A rubber mallet didn't help and I do not have a brass hammer though I bet that would work better.

If you can get one drum loose,take it & reverse it,so
that the outside faces are together.Now put the lugnuts
on loosely.Then yank on the outside drum.
This works like a slidehammer.

- Doug

Upon closer examination, it appears the hub in the middle is part of the drum. unless it's really that tight of a fit that the two look like they're one part. I was gonna take off the axle nuts but didn't have any new cotter pins to replace the ones I'd have to take out. I'll get to it later and let you guys know what I find out.