The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop what to do when starting and engine

I have a 51 thriftmaster. It had been sitting in a barn for over 10 years. I have looked at the plugs, fogged the cylinders, checked the oil and water...they both seem fine. Question?...what should I do before trying to start it?
paul

Welcome on board, Paul.
Sounds like you've got the basics covered. I'd also check the battery if it has one, most likely it'll need charged. Also pop the distributor cap and check the points for smooth operation. Wouldn't hurt to turn the engine over by hand or with the starter to make sure it's free. One other thing is the gas tank and feul pump. If it's had any gas in the tank during storage, by now it's going to be varnished up. That will gunk up the pump and carb in a hurry. You might consider running a hose to a gas can instead of running off the tank if it's full of varnish if you're just wanting to fire the engine.
Let us know how it goes.

Canada5window,,

Welcome to the Stovebolt. The items you have noted are all important, looks like you might have done this before.

The one thing I didn't see listed was the fuel situation. I would drain all the fuel and refill with fresh. The alternative would be to bypass the existing tank with a small temporary setup.

Make sure you have a nice new, fully charged battery. My bet is that the old girl will fire right off and surprise the heck out of you.

Good luck, and be sure to keep us posted.

Stuart

Hi and thanks...(Bill and Stuart)
Do you know if there is such thing as a hand crank to turn the engine slowly...I am a bit apprehensive as to trying the starting motor...thoughts?
Bill...thanks for the tip on the fuel varnishing...I forgot about that.
Stuart....she was running and insured in 93...maybe you are right...man that would be so great!...
paul

Canada 5,

Others may differ on this, but if the truck was stored inside a shed or whatever, I might pop the valve cover to make sure the upper end is not rusty. After dealing with fuel issue, and everything else you listed, I would start it.

My 46 sat from the late 70's...only being started once a year in the early 80's... and none at all from about 86 to 2004.

I needed new plugs, points, carb, battery..but it started and still runs like a champ.

Pull the plugs and the valve cover and turn it by hand. Check to make sure you don't have any stuck valves due to varnish. This could cause you a lot of greef. It happened to me. Bent valves and push rods. Better to check than to assume.
Tom

235 Fat Fenders,

Interesting comments. You bent valves and push rods, but didn't break any rockers. There is another post on the forum where the gentleman is breaking rockers, but not bending push rods or valves. I wonder what the difference would be? :confused:

Stuart

I let the engine set for about 2 years and when I finally tried to start it it bent 2 valves and some push rods due to stuck valves. It also put a half moon dimple in the pistons. The pistons wern't bad enough to change, but it did a number on the valve train. Don't know why it did not break a rocker, just luckey I guess. I also had to replace the fuel pump all the fuel lines and have the tank cleaned out. It hasn't set more than 2 weeks since without being run.
Tom

Something else I didn't see mentioned is getting oil throughout the motor before attempting to fire it. I'd take off the valve cover, make sure all the rockers are free and no stuck valves, pull all the plugs and crank it over until you get oil at the rockers.

I like what Fat says but pour a coating of oil and kerosene (50/50 mix) over the rocker shaft to prevent dry operation of rocker arms allow to drain down into the lifter area if your cranking buy hand this will allow lifters to lub up also. A mixtur of kerosene an oil will make things lube easer.Once engine is checked out to insure no stuck componints you can change back to a 100% oil..You can use a drill and or flat tip screw driver atached to a drill thru the distributor hole of the block to rotate the oil pump to insure proper lubrication, may take as much as 30+ seconds to get oil to rocker arm shaft.

Hi and thanks for all the info....you guys are great...I had headaches trying to find information on what to do when starting an engine that had sat...A friend got me on to Stovebolt, and I can see why it is the best....
I have also heard that pouring diesel fuel into the engine, after removing the valve cover is a very good way to free everthing up before hand turning it....
At anyrate, I will take all your advice and put it to good use. I will be pleased as hell if after all this...the ole girl just fires up!
thanks again
paul

A couple of responses mentioned the fuel tank but I'd suggest you go further. I have a '37 Packard that sat long enough to evaporate the fuel in the tank, then did most of the things above and got it running. However, the longer I ran it the worse it got. The tar/varnish in the tank was slowly dissolving with the fresh tank and affecting the carb and fuel pump.
I'd suggest you run the truck on a gas can or boat tank while you are working on it but take the gas tank out and thouroughly clean it before you connect it to run the truck.
Just my two cents, I learned the hard way.

Hey Paul,
Welcome to the Bolt,I too ,have a 5 window, I live in Aldergrove. I have a spare starter and generater if you need if you need it.I went the V8 route, so I ended up with some 6 cyl parts.
Lothar