The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop keep 216 head with 235 swap?

I've got a 53 truck in original condition (http://www.nelsonorgel.se/en/om/truck.html)with a few small problems. One of the small problems is a cracked block, just a little crack on the driver's side where the oil line runs through. It leaks a few drops of coolant but otherwise runs just fine, but I expect that sooner or later I've got some work to do. I've tried a number of sealants without success. Some local motorheads say I might get this crack welded, others say no. I think it is a shame to replace the original engine. Anyway, here is a specific question: I rebuilt the head a year ago, new valves and seats, the engine runs like a clock. I am tempted if I have to replace the motor to go with the 235, but I wouldn't mind keeping the head from the 216. I expect this is a stupid question, but is it possible to use the head from the 216 on a 235? Any other bright ideas about how to nurse my old 216 along? So far I have no problems with coolant in the oil.
I've gotten great advice here before, looking forward to some more! Anyone got an old 216 block they want to send me?

Here is the fix and it can be done with the engine in the vehicle, most of the time. Drill a series of holes the distance of the crack, tap the holes with machine thread and install machine screws. These holes you dill need to be almost touching each other. Then with all the screws in place grind off the heads and weld them together. I have seen an old machinest do this 3 times, it worked all 3 times.

Thanks Toyvo, I'll print this out and save it till I feel like doing some work. Somehow I posted this question twice, don't know how, and didn't see the other similar posting about the 235 head. Whatever. I'm willing to try welding the block, the worst that can happen is that I wreck a cracked block. Oh I suppose I could burn up the truck too. Karl

organ builder--- For easy repairs like you need I recommend K&W BLOCK SEALER. Just go by directions Strictly and it willwork. I have used it 4 times succesfully. Good Luck , 50 chevy 3100, Bob

That is not a stupid question. A head from a 216 should work on a 235 ONLY IF the 235 is a 1953 or earlier, low-pressure 235 engine.

Check out the head-bolt patterns on this page.

Let me add this to the text. The only 235 blocks that a 216 head will fit are the 235 blocks from 1941-1949. The 1950-52 235 heads will only work on those years. The 235/261 engine blocks from 1953-1962 can all use a common head. There are some differences.

The 1953 235 heads use the earlier 216 style valve cover.

The 1954-62 heads have 4 bolts that hold valve cover on at the sides of the cover. The 261 heads have steam holes drilled to accommodate the Siamesed cyls

Warren,

Thanks for the correction/clarification.

Tim

Simply a testament to the information that has been posted here already: my 39 has a 1948 235 babbit banger with a 1953 216 head. It worked great for over 10 years until I recently managed to bend some valves and push rods.

That block leak is common on the older 216s but I don't know about yours. The cause is usually corrosion in the water jacket. Many people have used a JB Weld type product with great success.

39AZ,
start a separate thread here on your problem and I am sure you will get a lot of responses.

Let me add a "me too" to the suggestion about patching the leak with epoxy. The pressure in the cooling system is so low on one of the old 216's that you won't need a pressure-tight seal like on a newer engine, and welding the block will require a complete teardown of the engine, prteheating, peening, post-heating, and a lot of other monkey motion, and it still might crack beside the weld. The "sewing" procedure with the threaded plugs works best with specially designed threaded, tapered cast iron plugs, and the holes need to overlap to work properly. Drill & tap one hole at a time, thread the plug into place, cut it off, and then drill the next hole overlapping a little.

The epoxy fix can be done with the engine in place, by simply sandblasting the cracked area with a portable sandblast gun, blowing the dust away, and then spreading a liberal coat of epoxy over the crack. Be sure to drain the coolant first. Before it hardens, press a piece of 40 grit sandpaper onto the patch to simulate the rough surface of the cast iron. The repair will almost disappear, especially after it's painted.
Jerry

The crack can grow from the ends. A fix for this is to drill a small hole at the end of the crack before repairing. both ends. We nickle welded a crack in a irrigation pump engine. ground the crack and welded.

The block on my '40 has been cracked in that same place for over 20years , I put some "chemi weld" in it and all has been ok , cheap and quick , a little crude , the crack has grown several inches in that time but the chemiweld stops the leak, but its still an effective daily driver.

Now I see a new few posts to my older posting, so I will add a few words of my own. The solution that Tovyo describes with the machine screws would still be a hassle with the motor in place, I'd have to pull the steering shaft and the exhaust manifold, and to top it off the crack starts right at the oil line pass through hole at the back of the oil pump. So in any event I would have to replace the oil line too and retap those threads after the welding etc. I feel more for doing the quick epoxy fix, at least until it is time for the major motor work that is on the horizon. Maybe it is a good idea to drill out the end of the crack first to stop it from growing, will this help with the epoxy fix or only with a weld?

Stop-drilling thje crack is a good idea no matter how you choose to repair it. Just be sure you find the end of the existing crack before you drill.
Jerry