The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest How do you lift a 1947 - 1954 Cab??

I'm looking for safe ways to lift my 1954 cab. I've seen someone build an elaborate frame/winch and one that uses an engine lift with a 2x4.

The engine lift seems to be an easier option. But instead of lifting it from the top of the cab, which looks scary, can you lift it from the cab to frame mounts instead? Or by strapping it around the bottom of the cab and lifting it from the center?

I don't want to modify a engine hoist to do this. Or should I just call 4 friends.

Thx!

4 friends would do, and you could supervise not really too problematic any way you can rig up, the structure is pretty strong and if it's stripped bare it's not really as heavy as you'd think

if working alone you might jack the cab up with 2x4's across the frame and jacks spread enough to roll the chassis out from under

Bill

With the doors removed, two burly brutes can man-handle it. I did a moving strap through the doors and around the bottom and then lifted it with the engine hoist inside the cab. It was pretty unstable in the balance department but manageable.

I nailed a couple 2" x 4"'s together about 12" wide and 4' long looks like and "A" then insert that through the rear/front window so it catches the pinch weld area. I then reach my engine lift through the door. It does not touch the sheet metal only the wood and it is really pretty stable cost me about $5 bucks and I can move it without help. I looked to see if I had a picture but I could not find it. Then I made a little cab dolly to set it on and roll it around.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/2727609370102454676uuRbEz

So regarding the A frame; did the hoist push up on the frame, or pull. If it pushed, did your hoist just sit between the 12" wide space?

Thx for all the replies!

Here's how I lift an AD cab:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2379212210080251109SxrygZ

Grigg

The engine hoist just comes in through the door against the wood of the A-frame. The open part of the A is going around the windshiedld divider the top of the A out the back window. So you only ever have wood to metal contact not metal to metal. This also does not touch the door frames where there is a chance of damaging the rain gutters which are a bear to fix. I am lifting the cab in the next week or so I will shoot some pictures and post them.

I've been told it's overly complicated, but I've moved a bunch of cabs around with it. It's not really a modification of the shop crane but an add on piece.
CabLiftO'Matic
Mongo

I promised I would post pictures when I lifted my cab. I installed my fresh painted cab this weekend and used my simple 2" x 4" frame. The benefit of this type is is is cheap, disposable, and only touches the pinchweld area of your cab so no damage occurs to your expensive new paint. The wooden wedge allows you to tip it slightly so you can start the front corner mount and then guide it right on. The other advantage is this makes it possible for one person to set the cab if you don't have a helper.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2654786350102454676qNvSPM
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2014971140102454676QEpayH
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2090167750102454676oCLxMq
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2173067740102454676MFQpkL
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2979094600102454676bkXtjF
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2268120160102454676GKEovk

Hi Brad. I like the idea of the wedge. I found the cab rocks a lot when up on the hoist. I didn't think of cutting a wedge.

Thanks