The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Glasss Install

I am a the point of installing the glass . When I took the doors to the body shop I did not remove the old glass and window channel guilds. So I have no idea how it goes back together... I am looking at assy manual but again, not much help. Can anyone tell me how far the channel felt goes down the door and how do I bend it at the corners so it wont pinch ?

Thank you

usually those felt channels are sold as one piece for each door, might not run down each side all the way to the bottom, but the ends will be down inside the doors - have to bend them slowly and gently to avoid that kinking, and you'll find it easier if you pre-shape them by bending over the glass, which will help hold the channel shape .... I just got done using the channels on my bus project, takes nearly 2 full lengths to do one of the bus windows - I found the new ones I used were stiffer and more prone to kinking than ones I've used on my trucks in years past also, there are some odd flat metal spring clips that stab into the back of the channel to help hold it up tight in the door [haven't seen them at any vendor], although the pressure of the glass does most of the job

for the general sequence of assembly, the shop manual has some instructions and pictures in the first section

Bill

.....I'm not positive guys but I believe Steele Rubber Products may carry those spring clips mentioned above???

Thank you Bill.
That is another question is how the felt channels stay in place...I wish I would have taken the time to detail this part when I was tearing down the doors.

Achip,
I will check with Steele Rubber. I got all my rubber products from them...

Just spoke to Steele Rubber, they say to just use screws hold the channel in place...they do no sale clips.

Jon

yeah, I've tried to find them before with no luck - on some of the bus felt I've used #4 X short flat head screws, which bury into the felt well enough to not interfere with anything - you won't need many on those channels and just along the top and corners to prevent it dropping at all when the window is down as the glass keeps it spread tightly into the front and back

Bill

Bill,
I have an after market pass. side door. Looking at the driver side I see I will need to drill 4 small holes in order to get the vent wing assy to mount. Do you know how long those screws need to be?
Is there a certain way all this has to go together?

1) Install window regulator
2) Install vent wing assy. (keeping it loose).
3) Install large side glass.
4) Slide felt channel down into door
5) Mount two small felt strips on either side of large glass.

Thank you!

those screws are so tiny they're a real bugger to get in without dropping them, like about 1/4", and I seem to remember them being machine threads rather than sheet metal, although regular sheet metal screws may work if you can find small enough ones .... yes, I think you have the right sequence, it's a bit of a struggle but slow and steady wins, look each piece over before you install it to make sure it's the right way round and you have all the necessary fasteners handy - might help to have four hands too

also, I'd use the vent frame held in place to mark for drilling those mount holes, you want them as perfectly placed as you can get

Bill

Hi Bill,
Thank you...spent the day just looking at how this all goes together.
New problem I found..there are 2 screws that hold the track to the window frame. Do you know what kind of screw head goes there?
The screw heads I get at local hardware store are flat heads but tappered. I need a screw that is flush because the regulator needs to slide in that track...but the screws I am getting are sticking up...

Thank you,

Jon

yes the countersunk style flat heads aren't right, they are a "panhead" style odd size, and the originals are clutch screws [which doesn't matter really], but keep in mind that the arms [rollers] don't travel the full width of the track, and you install those screws after the track is put in place on the regulator, so they can stick up without interfering ... I'll look at the project pile tomorrow and see if they're handy to get a size for you

Bill

Hi Bill,
Thank you for checking.

Bill,
On drilling the 4 holes for the vent window...would I drill once I have the roll-up window in as well? Or would it be OK to drill once I have the vent glass post mounted with those 2 bolts?
Oh, and should I ajust the doors before or after everything is in? I have them ajusted now with nothing in. Might be a slight ajustment after glass is back in.

Thank you!

Jon

hard call Jon, once everything is actually in would likely be best, but it'll be tough to drill in that small space with the rubber in the way - need 4 hands for sure .... I don't think having the glass in will affect door adjustment at all, as long as all the hinge bolts are tight

those track screws are what I'd call button head, and the panhead type will be as close as you'll get, sticking up doesn't matter as I said above - they have a captive nut behind, so that'll be the thread count, find something you have that fits that nut and get that size screw 1/2" long or so, they can stick thru a bit, but the less the better .... assembly is putting the track on the regulator rollers, then sliding the glass assembly in behind the track and installing the screws

don't have time right now to look thru the project stash for the vent frame screws [bags and bags of fasteners!], but looked at a door and I think they could be either machine thread or sheet metal, either should work

Bill

Bill,
OK great! That photo was dead on what I was thinking!
So a clutch head was there originally.
I might have those little guys somewhere.

I will match the drill holes to the driver doors and see how it goes!

Thank you so much!

Jon

Hi Bill,
Having a hard time with this project.
I installed the regulator first then the vent glass and frame. Then tried to put the roll-up window in...That didnt work,
Had to make the vent wing loose to put the glass in. Had to walk away for awhile..
Is there clips holding the rollers on the track for the window frame (keep it from coming off)?
The track we were talking about with the small button head screws? Thank you again for the photo. I was able to find the original screws for that track.

Great info here. I am installing glass as well. Everything was going good until I encountered the clutch head screws. Got some screw drivers on order to finish the job. One problem I encountered was the 2 lower vent window frame rail screws. They took some time to work out since they were frozen by rust.

it is painful Jon the vent needs to not only be loose, but be part way out when the glass goes in, and everything then pushes down together ... the regulator arms need to be in a position in front of the opening so the track can be slipped on the rollers, and when ready, the screws installed, but there's nothing to hold it - once the vent and window are slipped into place everything has to be held from moving while you put those screws in to secure the window to the track .... it does help to have extra hands, and it does help to take a break when ya start grinding yer teeth!

Bill

Hi Bill,
Well, I hate to admite my errors but... um... it helps to make sure you are putting the correct glass on the correct side...I will leave it at that...
Anyway, On my after market door, I have this metal piece spot welded across the door glass channel. I notice on the driver original door it does not have this....Do I really need it? It is getting in the way of getting the glass back on the track.

Thank you!

Jon

oops! we all do it, easy to miss the mark sometimes!

that brace piece has been on all the doors I've seen/have - I think it's likely there to prevent the opening from spreading and allowing the vent rubber to lose it's seal - should be on the front side of the vent post so it'll keep things tight, but shouldn't affect the big glass .... note that the track should be on the regulator arm rollers before the glass is attached to it, so the track holes can be lined up with the glass sash holes by using the regulator to raise or lower it ... and you need to make sure the extra arm is in it's short track on the door first, it's what keeps the regulator moving straight up/down

Bill

I will try to get the glass track back on with the regulator loose or off enough to get on (wife can finally help me and hold the glass). The front roller is the hard one because the glass is hitting against that metal cross piece I was asking about. So you do not think it is necessary to keep?
When the vent wing is in place the spring is sitting on one side and the channel is on the other side of that metal cross strip. The driver side is way easier to get the vent wing in and I hope the glass as well.
Thank you for the help and patience you show!

hey, no problem, I know how frustrating it can be and talking thru it always helps .... the reason that cross piece shouldn't be a problem is the vent and it's post should be between it and the window glass - check the pic in the shop manual [at bottom], the framed glass needs to be in the division bar channel with both partway into the door, the channel should already be on the regulator rollers waiting for the window to be slid down to meet it - sounds like you're trying to put the window in with the channel attached to the bottom sash then get the rollers into the channel, won't work

Bill

Ah ha!
OK I was wondering about that...OK, so, remove the 2 screws holding the sash channel..which then frees up the channel and slide the rollers on the channel and then re-install the 2 screws to the glass frame....OK I will try in the morning!

Thank you Bill!

Jon

Hi Bill,
OK, got the passenger side glass in. What a pain in the ash!
On the channel felt , I assume they give you more than you need. Do I just cut the felt right at the vent window channel? The felt is in the clip down in the door but the felt slides around. Can I use some ss screws to hold the felt in place?

Thank you!!
Jon

the pain subsides after winding the glass up and down a bit!

yes, cut the channel as snug as you can against the division bar channel - if you still have the other glass out use it to shape the curved corner first, for both sides, rolling the window up will get the final shape - and if you don't have the original sheet metal thingies [L shaped with points that poke into the felt] tiny flat head screws straight in the bottom of the channel at the top corner and top end end will hold it against rattling around

Bill

OK,
Thank you...Let you know...I should do better on the driver door..now that I know what I am doing..haha!

Bill,
Got the driver side glass in...Amazing how easy it was plus having the orginal door helped!
Only problem now is that channel felt. I just can not get that kink out around the curve of the door and glass...Any ideas?

Jon

Got everything back on and in.
Note to self: NEVER buy after market crap!!!

Thank you Bill for the support!!

glad to help .... yes it seems some of the repro parts aren't as good as they useta be - that felt channel can be found at some older local auto glass places in 8' lengths and it might be better from them

Bill

I got my glass installed today. It was a PITA to get it out, but going in was a breeze. The channel part that the rollers go into and the window bolts to, slipped off and had to enlist my daughter's skinny arms to retrieve it. That was fun! Not! I did not install new felt because those doors will get replaced in the near future.